Models > 10651783412

10651783412 Kenmore Refrigerator

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Your refrigerator water and ice filter should be replaced at least every 6 months, to prevent water that has an undesirable taste and odor, or if left for too long, can cause leaks and ice maker malfu...
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Your refrigerator air filter should be replaced at least every 6 months to ensure its working as it should. This part is responsible for reducing common food odors and bacteria in the air, improving u...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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The gallon door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and is typically used to hold jars and bottles within easy reach. These bins are clear, as the white version has been discontinued b...
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$26.98
This part includes one authentically sourced 3-pin rocker switch for a refrigerator. It is responsible for turning the light on inside the fridge when the door is open. It is commonly replaced because...
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$12.73
This authentic OEM part is a mounting screw for the door handle on your refrigerator. If the door handle is loose or you are having issues opening or closing the door, a new mounting screw may solve t...
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$13.09
This screw is sold individually.
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
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This is a genuine replacement light bulb for a refrigerator. The inside of your refrigerator should illuminate when you open the door. If your fridge does not illuminate, you may need to replace this ...
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This ice maker is for refrigerators. Ice maker includes the ice mold and the control device. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and then holds the water in the ice mold until t...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 10651783412

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Not dispensing water
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Door Sweating
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  • Customer:
    Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
153 of 176 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Parts Used:
    W11384469
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
114 of 168 people found this instruction helpful.
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  • Customer:
    DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Parts Used:
    4387478
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
61 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
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