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10651113210
10651113210 Kenmore Refrigerator
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Diagrams for 10651113210
Viewing 13 of 13
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$11.73
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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$7.71
The lower door closing cam raises the door to keep it from touching the refrigerator liner when the door is closed. It fits both the left and right side of the refrigerator door. The most common reaso...
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This clear convertible meat drawer is for the lower part of the refrigerator. It has an air duct that allows cold air to flow into the drawer from the freezer. It can be used to store meats and vegeta...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement slide out shelf with glass for your refrigerator. The plastic frame and glass are only sold together and are not available separately. This is a standalone shelf and ...
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$79.16
The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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$46.59
The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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$42.92
The gallon door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and is typically used to hold jars and bottles within easy reach. These bins are clear, as the white version has been discontinued b...
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$102.59
If you need a new bucket for your ice maker, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Over time and with regular use, the ice bucket can become cracked and not function properly. If this happens the bu...
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$138.21
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
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$123.43
If you need to replace the glass shelf in your refrigerator, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Please note that this is strictly the glass shelf insert. The plastic shelf frame is not included b...
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$104.43
If the crisper pan inside your fridge has become damaged, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. The crisper drawer is used to hold fruits and vegetables in a humidity-controlled environment. If the ...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 10651113210
Viewing 22 of 22Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Clicking sound
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Too warm
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Freezer too cold
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Not dispensing water
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- garth from forest lake, MN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read more
t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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- Customer:
- john from seaford, VA
- Parts Used:
- 4388736
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
Removed Ice bin from Fridge
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
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- Customer:
- Cathy from Winter Park, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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