Models > 36358892898

36358892898 Kenmore Refrigerator

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This genuine OEM part is the right side of the slide rail for the crisper drawer in your refrigerator. This rail is attached to your fridge wall with two screws and will require a Philips screwdriver ...
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This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
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The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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If you are experiencing temperature issues with your refrigerator, there may be an issue with the defrost heater. If this part has failed, it can cause your fridge and freezer to get too warm. It can ...
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Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
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This grommet is found on both the front and back of the fan motor assembly for the condenser and the evaporator in your fridge. It is used to provide a buffer between the fan motor and the mounting br...
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This is a drawer slide rail for the right side of your refrigerator. It is located on the bottom of the unit, mounted to the right side of the cabinet wall. The purpose of this part is to hold the she...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
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This drawer slide rail is for the left side of the refrigerator, and allows the bottom shelf to slide in and out. If your refrigerator door will not close, or the bottom drawer will not slide properly...
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It is used with those refrigerators that have an ice and water dispenser in the door.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 36358892898

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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Noisy
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Frost buildup
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Door won’t open or close
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Door Sweating
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Fixing
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Light not working
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Fixing Fixing
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Fridge too cold
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Won’t start
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Clicking sound
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
James from Centerville, OH
Parts Used:
WR57X10023
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Leaking water valve
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
8478 of 12455 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Richard from West Alton, MO
Parts Used:
WR9X489, WR51X10055, WR50X122
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer was still simi-cold but refrigerator was not.
Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.
447 of 490 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Adrian from Louisville, KY
Parts Used:
WR9X489
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
Refrigerator temp was warm
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
124 of 143 people found this instruction helpful.
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