Models > 59676252702

59676252702 Kenmore Refrigerator

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If your freezer has stopped making ice cubes, it may be time to replace your ice maker. Normal wear and tear, or accidental damage may be the cause of this. This model includes the control device and ...
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This part is the center crisper drawer slide rail which helps to support the crisper drawers in your refrigerator. If you have difficulty opening or closing your crispers, the center slide rail may be...
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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Also known as a duck bill. This kit includes the tube extension piece and spacer.
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Also known as a Water Solenoid Valve. The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
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Glass and centre support is NOT included. Must be ordered separately. This frame along with the glass provides the crisper drawer for fresh storage of vegetables
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$107.12
Sold individually. Crisper drawer is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part that fits some bottom-freezer Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, Maytag and Whirlpool refrigerators. T...
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Sold individually. 14 by 6-1/4 by 3-1/2 inches
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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This board will need to be programmed upon installation. The electronic control board is used in refrigerators to monitor and manage the temperature settings, such as cooling or defrosting times. If y...
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
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This part mounts on the crisper drawer cover and is used to limit the amount of air that gets into the crisper.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 59676252702

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Ice maker not making ice
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Noisy
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Light not working
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Not dispensing water
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Parts Used:
D7824706Q
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
801 of 885 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
394 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
Parts Used:
WPW10503278
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
353 of 428 people found this instruction helpful.
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