59665234404 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.

A very easy fix took all of five minutes

The hard part for me was figuring out which part was causing the problem. I read what others had done and followed their test methods. I checked the defroster heater for continuity and the defroster thermostat to make sure it was closing. the defroster termostat has to be cold to check it. You will need to check it while it is in ice or take it out and put it in another freezer for 30 mins and then check it for continuity. Those items checked out ok so it had to be the control board. The control board is a 5 min job to replace but making sure that is your problem is the hard part. I think the control board was bad due to a power surge we had when the power went out and came back on. It might be a good idea to put a surge protector on your home to protect your fridge and all your other electronic stuff. Our refrigerator is now working like new again. Thank you for all your help, Jim

First thing to do is take two screws off where the door closes.I removed the light sheild off by pushing it to back of refrig.The most hardest part is removing the complete panel,I took a small flat blade scraper to ply down to get small access than you need to put alot of pressure to start getting the panel to start coming off there are alot of pegs to free,the back panel has two hinges that slide towards the front.Once the panel drops remove the connectors and take entire unit out,very easy to replace the control board at this point.Installation is easy slide the two hinges on back in place and put pressure on unit to snap entire unit in place.Program unit with paperwork that came with part very easy to do.Frig is working great now.Just a note the paperwork on refrig is located in the front right corner the mf hids it ,this information will allow you to check all problems with refrig using the key pads for freezer/refrig.Good luck.

The video on website is very good and explains everything in detail. Just follow the directions. This is EASY!!!!

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

I called the repairman and he troubleshot the problem and told me that he could order the part or that I could. He quickly explained what to do. I ordered the part it came in with 2 days during that time I looked up on how to remove and replace the part on the website. The website stated it took around 15 minutes. That is all it took. I had to use a screw driver to remove two screws and seperate the connection. I reconnected the wiring per instructions on the website reversed the process and it was done within 15 minutes. I save a lot of money and time away from work. This is a grest site to get what you need to fix your appliances. If I have any problems with my other equipment I will becoming back to this website to get the parts and information

I want to thank you for providing the information and helping folks out that can do the job

replaced control board

removed old rail,lifted glass panel above and inserted new rail-voila!!done.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I removed the glass top and then rail and frame.
I had to remove the gaskets from the old frame and put them on the new one.
The steel support and the slide mechanisms were difficult to remove. I needed a screwdriver to do this.
Some directions would have helped here.
It was easier to snap them back into the new frame.
I set the frame and then rail back into the refrigerator,
replaced the glass.

Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

Removed the drawers and shelf unit above the shelves. Installed the new rail and put the shelf unit and drawers back in. Less than 5 minute repair. Very fast delivery of part and reasonable pricing.

Unsnap damper louver cover using only your fingernails at bottom. Remove two phillips screws from damper cover. Remove styrofoam molded insulation. Squeeze electrical connector to release latch; unplug connector. Release latches on both sides of damper control while gently pulling on damper control unit to remove it. Install new unit by doing above steps in reverse. Damper door may move when electrics connected; keep fingers clear.
Amana would not honor our extended warranty that we paid $65 for, saying that noises are not covered. Im glad that Partselect supplied the part quick and and a great price. The frig is quiet for the first time in 2 years!