25361762016 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.

I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.

Frig area was at about 50 degrees and would not get cooler. Freezer was working great.
Empty the freezer and remove the two screws that hold the back panel of the inside of the freezer on. Pull the panel out and you will see the fan that is mounted to the back of the panel. If the fan is not running, disconnect it (quick connector) and check to see if there is voltage coming to it from the connector (should be 120VAC between the two wires). If there is power, and the fan was not working, replace the fan.

Fan just snaps into the holder on the back panel and plugs into the quick connector. Make sure you clear any ice build-up in the hole between the freezer and the frig that the fans blows through. Put it back together and verify the fan runs.

took the cover off
(cardbord) the fan will come off and go back on by hand no tools needed i changed the fan motor just to be sure. 3 little screws hold it on. the plug only goes on one way u can't mess it up.very easy job u shouldn't have any problems doing it.Jim

The lower compartment was hovering around 50 degrees. Logic told me that cold air was not being driven from the freezer to the lower compartment. At first, I found the passageway between freezer and lower compartment was blocked with frost/ice, which could have been the entire problem. But why was that ice accumulated there? After defrosting, the problem was only partly solved. A few how-to videos suggested that the defrost timer was a common problem, so I tried that, the part was about $11, with minimal improvement. So I concluded that the fan was not driving cold air from the freezer to the lower section. I tested the fan by removing the freezer back panel completely, wiring the fan to an old ordinary power cord, and plugging that in to a wall outlet. The fan would not start on its own, would only turn if I gave it a spin, and then was very weak - I could stop it with a finger without pain! When my new fan arrived, I again removed the back panel in the freezer and replaced the fan, just a few screws to remove, then swap the fan blade to the new fan motor. The process was simple and obvious. Now the lower section stays near 40 degrees, though I'm not convinced that's the only problem-there seems to be a lot of variation in the temperature. BTW, I had also confirmed the defrost heating element was functional by activating the defrost timer (see youtube), to eliminate that from the diagnosis.

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

I popped the new one in. My cat could have done it

Went pretty straight forward, except the heat shrink tubing was about 2 sizes too big. Would not shrink small enough to seal the connections. Even with a heat gun it would not shrink small enough. OH, another think is when I plugged the fridge back in the defrost timer was in defrost mode. Took me a few minutes to figure that out and use a screwdriver to turn the timer back to the on position. Other than that, install was pretty simple.

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

I snapped the parts into place. The fact that the parts I recieved were original parts from Frigidaire made all the difference. I feel if the parts had been after market parts they would not have fit so well.

After waiting over 2wks for my part to arrive, I purchased the part locally and made the repair the same day as I am still waiting for the part to arrive from you guys. Your customer service really needs improving. I paid for 2 day shipping, what a joke. I will be returning the part as soon as I receive it thanks.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

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I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Just snapped them into place without any problems! The parts were exactly what I was looking for.