2539639013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!

UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it rattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.

I pulled off the old door gasket which came off really easy. I was hoping the new one would go on as easy as just popping it in place but it didnt work. I had to remove the inside door panel. The gasket wouldnt lay entirely flat in the inside groove so I used a bead of RTV around the entire circumference which helped to hold it in place while reattaching the panel back onto the door. The screws fit on the under side of the magnetic portion of the gasket. In order to access the screw holes the gasket has to be lifted which sometimes causes the gasket to pull from the lip on the back side of the panel making the RTV get everywhere. After every screw was in place and lightly tightened the panel had to be adjusted to allow for the proper closing of the door. This was the worst part, fortunatly the screws left a slight indentation of where they were before I removed them so it gave me a nice reference.
The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine.
The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off.
Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.

The fan motor all but caught the inside of the freezer on fire . Had to remove then clean, and I mean clean the walls of the freezer . Then had to pry out the old fan without breaking anything . Replacement of new fan was quick and easy because all the parts that I needed were in the bag

unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.

Bought a new
capacitor.

unplugged, removed old parts, replaced with new

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I used a small screwdriver to disconnect wires from old starter. I connected the overload and starter, two wires. I put the unit back in the keeper, plugged the unit in, turned up the thermostat and it's working beautifully.

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.

just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.