79573115710 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).

Unscered 2 screws, unplug electrical connection under the screws, slide her flap into grooves, realign screw holes , and rescrew in. Done.

Had to buy the entire door mullion because the spring broke, wasn't happy. Got the new part very quickly and it was a new replacement part number. Somewhat tentative. Took it out of the box and looked it over. No spring! Groan! Thought I got the wrong part. Flipped the bottom hinge and it snapped open, no need for a spring! Two screws, disconnect the wire harness, throw away the old, get new, connect the wire harness, connect hinges, put in two screws! Super easy. Watch the video for some pointers along the way.

REMOVED 3 SCREWS AND OUT IT CAME UNPLUG THE HARNES AT THE TOP YOUR NONE

The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in
one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.

Removed old bucket and placed new one In its place. New one is actually better than OEM part because it has an arm than breaks up any ice that may jam.

was easy watching youtube video of how to replace whole ice maker, was only 3 screws, remove from the door, a couple of screws hold it to the flat piece, route the wires around the unit, connect the plug as installing it in the door, position it, and tighten 3 screws, that easy

Watched a YouTube video on how to replace the door flipper (mullion). Very easy to unscrew the plate and disconnect the electrical circuit. Then gently slide up the flipper and replace with a new one.

Unplugged fridge, shut off water supply disconnected water supply from fridge. Remove screws that hold lower cover on back of fridge, removed screws holding valve assembly to fridge. Disconnect two electrical connections, remove black c-clip on out flow water line, lift fitting on outflow line side and pull water line off. Replace with valve assembly in reverse order

1. Remove 3 screws (2- bottom 1-middle)
2. Loosen 1 screw (top middle left)
3. Remove the whole assembly by pulling down carefully
4. Disconnect the multi-wire plug from the back of the door. It has a locking tab on top that you may have to use a flathead screwdriver to unlock, being careful
not to touch the wiring.
5. Reverse this procedure to install the new icemaker assembly.

The spring broke on the flapper (mullion) on my refrigerator. I sent a chat message to PartsSelect (they answered right away) to see if they had a replacement spring but it was not available so had to order the whole mullion. They gave me the part # I would have to order. It arrived quickly. The new mullion didn’t have a visible spring but it worked the same if not better. I just had to remove 2 screws on the center plate on the existing mullion, pull the plate out enough so you will be able to slide the mullion (the wires are under the plate kind of like the ones you see on a ceiling smoke detector) but you can’t get under the plate until you release the mullion. Push up on the mullion so that the plastic tabs on the top and bottom are released. Once the mullion is released (you have to hold it), you’ll see the wires. Unhook the wire part by just pushing down on the little tab and remove it. To install the new one, just reverse the steps. Align the top and bottom plastic tabs to fit into the slots, just enough to hold it in place. If the plastic tabs are not already flipped out, you’ll have to just flip them out. The top tab does not have tension but the bottom tab has tension so just push on it with your finger to flip it out. The plate covering the electrical is a rather tight fit and you have to make sure the little tab on the inside of the plate is above and behind the tab on the inside where the wires are so it slides behind it so you can get it in position before sliding the mullion back down into place and the electrical plate is in place too. Then screw the 2 screws back in. The hardest part is holding the mullion while un-attaching the electrical and just make sure you stuff the wires in enough so you can get the plate back in position. I’m a 75 yr old woman and managed fine by myself. At first when installing the new one, I couldn’t slide the mullion down enough to get the electrical plate in position and then realized I had to have the little tab inside the electrical plate behind the tab inside the wire compartment so they didn’t hit one another when pushing the mullion back down. Then, all went fine.

Remove 2 screws holding to door. Slide assembly up. Unplug connector. Remove old Plate Assembly. Do reverse to reinstall. Plug connector. Push in wires. Slide plate on. Fasten screws. Done

This was an incredibly easy repair! 1 phillips screwdriver and two screws. Disconnect the small adapter, and you are good to go!

First, remove power to the refrigerator.

To replace the ice maker you first have to remove the back mounting assembly, which ice maker is attached to.

Only three Phillips head screws need to be removed: 2 on the bottom and 1 on the back of the ice maker mounting assembly. Do not remove the two diagonal Phillips head screws holding the dispenser motor on the reverse side of the mounting assembly.

As you pull out the mounting assembly to the front you will see a connector on the top inside, which must be unplugged. A narrow standard screw driver will help the connector lock to release; slide the screwdriver tip under the connector lock clip and it will allow the connector to be unplugged.

Once the ice maker mounting assembly is removed and placed on a flat surface it will be self evident as to how to remove and replace the ice maker. The 1” tape might be needed during the cable re-routing process. However you can reuse the original tape required to be removed during the ice maker remove and replace process, if possible.

Reinstall the ice maker mounting assembly in the reverse order it was removed.

Apply power to the refrigerator.

Cycle the ice maker to Off and then back to On. It may take an hour or two before the ice maker produces ice because the temperature inside the ice maker must reach “0” degrees Fahrenheit before it will begin making ice.





Pull the ice maker

Found the part on Parts Select. Ordered the part, which came quickly. While waiting for delivery. I watched a short video on how to replace this part. I'm a 73 yr. old female, and no trouble at all. I really felt a sense of accomplishment. Thank you Parts Select.