Models > 36350247000

36350247000 Kenmore Refrigerator

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This genuine OEM part is the right side of the slide rail for the crisper drawer in your refrigerator. This rail is attached to your fridge wall with two screws and will require a Philips screwdriver ...
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This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
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The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
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This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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The bearing slide is a small plastic piece found in your refrigerator that helps the crisper drawers to move smoothly on the rails. This is a genuine OEM part, and they are sold individually. There ar...
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Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
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Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
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This grommet is found on both the front and back of the fan motor assembly for the condenser and the evaporator in your fridge. It is used to provide a buffer between the fan motor and the mounting br...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 36350247000

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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Light not working
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Not dispensing water
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Clicking sound
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Will Not Start
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
James from Centerville, OH
Parts Used:
WR57X10023
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Leaking water valve
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
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Customer:
Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
Parts Used:
WR51X10101
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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Customer:
Adrian from Louisville, KY
Parts Used:
WR9X489
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
Refrigerator temp was warm
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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