Models > 10651173310

10651173310 Kenmore Refrigerator

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Your refrigerator air filter should be replaced at least every 6 months to ensure its working as it should. This part is responsible for reducing common food odors and bacteria in the air, improving u...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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$27.65
This part includes one authentically sourced 3-pin rocker switch for a refrigerator. It is responsible for turning the light on inside the fridge when the door is open. It is commonly replaced because...
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$12.73
This authentic OEM part is a mounting screw for the door handle on your refrigerator. If the door handle is loose or you are having issues opening or closing the door, a new mounting screw may solve t...
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$13.09
This screw is sold individually.
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
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$14.58
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
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$11.14
For white, biscuit, black and stainless models.
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This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
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$5.42
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 10651173310

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Not dispensing water
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
Parts Used:
WPW10225581
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
154 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
118 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Anna from Lincoln, RI
Parts Used:
WPW10189190
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Our Refrigerator and freezer stopped working
I had read on a fix it site that the start device for the compressor on this particular model was known to fail after 3-5 years. When we received the part it looked like something that just plugged into the compressor. My husband unscrewed the panel in the back of the fridge and saw the part on the compressor. He first removed the thre e wires that it was connected to, and the wires were inside a plug so all he had to do was remove the plug from the start device. He then removed the old start device from the compressor. Plugged in the wire plug into the new start device, and pushed in the new start device into the compressor. There was also another black part plugged into the old start device that he plugged inot the new start device that connected to the compressor. Our freezer and refrigerator starting working. Within a couple of hours our freezer had made ice.
58 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
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