Models > I8RXCGFXQ02

I8RXCGFXQ02 Inglis Refrigerator

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Manuals & Guides for I8RXCGFXQ02

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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This genuine OEM part is an end cap for the door shelf retainer bar in your refrigerator. The end cap is used to secure the retainer bar and attach it to the fridge or freezer door. It is made of whit...
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This is an OEM evaporator fan motor with an integrated wire harness for a refrigerator. It is in the back of the freezer where it pushes the air over the refrigerator coils, where the warm air cools a...
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This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
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$127.05
This kit includes ice bucket and water valve and fits Whirlpool models manufactured from 1993 to present.
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Sold Individually.
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$101.63
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
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This part is used to support the hinge.
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$13.37
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for I8RXCGFXQ02

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too cold
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Too warm
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Clicking sound
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door Sweating
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Customer:
William from Middletown, NY
Parts Used:
WP2315539
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Evaporator Fan failure
The reason I repaired it myself was because the repairman that diagnosed the problem.didn't come back in two weeks. The evaporator fan sits behind a vented wall in the freezer and directs cold air into freezer and refrigerator.I removed the ice make assembly first and then the freezer wall held in place by two sheet metal nuts. Then remov ed wires from fan motor. Removed the fan blade from fan motor,which was press fitted on,then removed fan motor from bracket assembly(make sure and retain the two vibration rubber washers on back and front of motor. Reinstall new motor with vibration washers and press fan blade on new motor. Install in bracket assemble and reassemnble.
158 of 179 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
Parts Used:
WPW10225581
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
155 of 181 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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