Models > I8RXCGFXQ00

I8RXCGFXQ00 Inglis Refrigerator

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Manuals & Guides for I8RXCGFXQ00

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
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This kit comes with a fill tube and a compression nut.
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This genuine OEM part is an end cap for the door shelf retainer bar in your refrigerator. The end cap is used to secure the retainer bar and attach it to the fridge or freezer door. It is made of whit...
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This is an OEM evaporator fan motor with an integrated wire harness for a refrigerator. It is in the back of the freezer where it pushes the air over the refrigerator coils, where the warm air cools a...
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Sold Individually.
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$127.41
This kit includes ice bucket and water valve and fits Whirlpool models manufactured from 1993 to present.
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$101.92
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
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$13.41
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for I8RXCGFXQ00

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker not making ice
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Too warm
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Clicking sound
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Noisy
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Door Sweating
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
398 of 480 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
William from Middletown, NY
Parts Used:
WP2315539
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Evaporator Fan failure
The reason I repaired it myself was because the repairman that diagnosed the problem.didn't come back in two weeks. The evaporator fan sits behind a vented wall in the freezer and directs cold air into freezer and refrigerator.I removed the ice make assembly first and then the freezer wall held in place by two sheet metal nuts. Then remov ed wires from fan motor. Removed the fan blade from fan motor,which was press fitted on,then removed fan motor from bracket assembly(make sure and retain the two vibration rubber washers on back and front of motor. Reinstall new motor with vibration washers and press fan blade on new motor. Install in bracket assemble and reassemnble.
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Customer:
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
Parts Used:
WPW10225581
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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