CTA12CFB Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from BELLEVUE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
- Parts Used:
- WD2X5166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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