Models > CSK24GRXAAD

CSK24GRXAAD Hotpoint Refrigerator

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This genuine OEM part is the right side of the slide rail for the crisper drawer in your refrigerator. This rail is attached to your fridge wall with two screws and will require a Philips screwdriver ...
In Stock
This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
In Stock
This single door closure cam is mounted on the door, not the hinge.
In Stock
This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
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Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
In Stock
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
No Longer Available
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
In Stock
This is the replacement door hinge shim, or riser cam shim for your refrigerator. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Your refrigerator will have a door h...
On Order
This clip on refrigerator defrost thermostat clips on to your refrigerator's evaporator. It will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
In Stock
Found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
In Stock

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Common Problems and Symptoms for CSK24GRXAAD

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Leaking
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Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Not dispensing water
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Door Sweating
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Frost buildup
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Gary from North eastham, AL
Parts Used:
WR2X4901
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Door would not automatically close.
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.

One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.

Purchased part 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.

Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.

1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.

2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.

3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.

4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.

5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover

6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.

7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.

8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.

9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.

10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).

11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.

12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.

13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.

14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.

15 Close the door.
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Customer:
Marty from West Bloomfield, MI
Parts Used:
WR02X11330, WR17X2891
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Internal water lines brittle, cracked, leaking
First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.
118 of 136 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X10725
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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