Models > TFF22DV-D

TFF22DV-D General Electric Refrigerator

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Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees F and kick back in when the temperature drops to 35 degrees F. It comes with connectors and the mounting brackets.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
No Longer Available
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion. The fan itself has two 1/4 inch spade terminals. It carries 2 watts and 115 volts. This motor NO longer comes with cover for terminals.
Special Order
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, but its terminals are bent and the leads are external.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 26
NOTE: This it is just the heaters and the jumper wires between the two heaters.
No Longer Available
$62.17
Special Order
This white door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
No Longer Available
With refrigerators/freezers they have a thermostat that helps maintain the desire temperature.
No Longer Available
This gray door gasket kit is cut to fit your refrigerator, though some assembly is required. Use it for your GE brand refrigerator.
No Longer Available

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Common Problems and Symptoms for TFF22DV-D

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Light not working
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Door won’t open or close
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Door Sweating
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Freezer section too warm
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Clicking sound
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge runs too long
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
121 of 171 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
Parts Used:
WR13X10020
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Socket set
My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
54 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Keith from Fort Worth, TX
Parts Used:
WR60X30349, WR60X114
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Noisey fan/motor (bad motor bearing ?)
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them)
Pulled fan off of shaft
Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.
reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.
Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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