Models > HBRC0FADARWW

HBRC0FADARWW General Electric Refrigerator

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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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$15.26
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty sock...
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This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
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Also known as Heater Conduction.
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$15.26
Size: 10-32 GXTT FLP .595 Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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SUPPORT Vegetable PAN ASM
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Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for HBRC0FADARWW

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Light not working
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer section too warm
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Frost buildup
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
121 of 172 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
nancy from silsbee, TX
Parts Used:
WR2X9391
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
bad light socket
unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy
45 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Erick from Elmhurst, NY
Parts Used:
WR2X9391, WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Light switch inside refrigerator wasn't working
First turned off power and removed top shelf.
Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.
31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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