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ABE20EGHBRWS
ABE20EGHBRWS General Electric Refrigerator
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$8.56
The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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$11.02
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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$9.88
This OEM compression ring is used to hold the evaporator fan motor in place. Signs that you may need to replace the compression ring are if the fan is noisy, or your fridge or freezer are too warm. We...
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$10.97
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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$72.79
This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. I...
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$13.13
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
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This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
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$148.00
This is the replacement lower vegetable pan for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 18 1/2" deep by 16.6" wide and 12 1/2" high. The vegetable pan slides into the botto...
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Chris
September 30, 2023
Water is leaking out of the bottom of the freezer, wondering if an expert might tell me what’s going on…?
For model number ABE20EGHBRWS
Hi Chris, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend making sure that the defrost drain is not clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough, drip down to the bottom of the compartment, and leak out. If that is the case, you may need to thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris. Also, ensure that there are no water lines broken inside the refrigerator or freezer. If the issue persists, you may need to check the defrost thermostat, part number FIX2354755, as it is most likely faulty and may need to be replaced. Glad to be of assistance!
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Related Parts:
Common Problems and Symptoms for ABE20EGHBRWS
Viewing 11 of 11Noisy
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How to fix it
Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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How to fix it
Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Clicking sound
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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How to fix it
Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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- Customer:
- Jania from Novato, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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- Customer:
- Terry from Simi Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10725
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s
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o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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