Models > GBSC0HCXFRBB

GBSC0HCXFRBB General Electric Refrigerator

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Diagrams for GBSC0HCXFRBB

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The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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This OEM compression ring is used to hold the evaporator fan motor in place. Signs that you may need to replace the compression ring are if the fan is noisy, or your fridge or freezer are too warm. We...
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$10.97
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. I...
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This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
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This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one s...
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$13.10
This is a replacement set screw for your refrigerator door. The set screw attaches the door handle to the stud on the refrigerator door. The screw is approximately ¼ of an inch in length and unlike so...
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This is the replacement lower vegetable pan for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 18 1/2" deep by 16.6" wide and 12 1/2" high. The vegetable pan slides into the botto...
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This genuine OEM screw is designed for use in refrigerators. It measures approximately ¾ of an inch in length.
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Also known as Heater Conduction.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GBSC0HCXFRBB

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Ice maker not making ice
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Noisy
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Fridge too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X10725
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gerald from Benicia, CA
Parts Used:
WR30X10093
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
89 of 122 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Dan from West Bloomfield, MI
Parts Used:
WR30X10093
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Ice maker stopped working
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
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