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DSHS5PGXAESS
DSHS5PGXAESS General Electric Refrigerator
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Diagrams for DSHS5PGXAESS
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Manuals & Guides for DSHS5PGXAESS
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$27.00
The temperature sensor, also referred to as a thermistor, is used to monitor the refrigerator and freezer internal temperatures. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a white ...
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$21.27
This is an OEM clear plastic module shelf insert (door shelf trim), which is the part of the door shelf bin that snaps onto the front to keep items contained securely on the shelf. This is the shelf i...
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$216.23
The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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$13.21
The evaporator fan grommet is used to provide a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket in your freezer. This genuine OEM part is about one inch in diameter and is red in color. I...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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$443.55
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
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The dispenser door solenoid is the part that controls the flapper door on your ice maker, allowing it to open and close when dispensing ice. If your ice maker is not dispensing ice or water, the door ...
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If you are experiencing temperature issues with your refrigerator, there may be an issue with the defrost heater. If this part has failed, it can cause your fridge and freezer to get too warm. It can ...
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$49.74
This part is found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace this part when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
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$9.17
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
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$17.85
This OEM dispenser lightbulb is sold individually. This light bulb is responsible for lighting up the dispenser area of your fridge. It is 12 volts, 6 watts, and has a screw-in base. For this simple t...
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Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
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Questions and Answers
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Common Problems and Symptoms for DSHS5PGXAESS
Viewing 26 of 26Fridge too warm
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How to fix it
Leaking
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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How to fix it
Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Not dispensing water
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Door won’t open or close
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Door latch failure
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Clicking sound
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Leaks water
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Gerald from San Clemente, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025, WR02X10552
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I
... Read more
had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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- Customer:
- John from Holly Springs, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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- Customer:
- ALBERT from RALEIGH, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C, WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Our Ice Damper was warped, which let warm air into the freezer and caused frost to form. Also, our ice and water dispensers stopped working.
Swapping out the ice dispenser damper door was pretty easy- just used a combination of screwdrivers to remove the dispenser assembly, popped the old damper off, put the new damper on. Replacing the control board was only a bit more complicated- unplugged the fridge, removed the control board metal cover (beware the somewhat sharp edges),
... Read more
unhooked all the cables from the board, used needle-nose pliers to pinch each plastic spacer/fastener as to not damage them while removing the old board, mounted the new board where the old board was, and plugged in all the cables (they were all different enough from each other that I didn't have any trouble figuring out where they were supposed to connect). I now have my fridge plugged into a surge protector- hopefully that will protect this new board I've installed. Thanks a bunch,PartSelect.
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