Models > BSS25GFPDCC

BSS25GFPDCC General Electric Refrigerator

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This is an OEM replacement water filter for your refrigerator. The manufacturer suggests replacing this filter every 6 months or 300 gallons of water. If not replaced regularly, you will risk contamin...
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The temperature sensor, also referred to as a thermistor, is used to monitor the refrigerator and freezer internal temperatures. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a white ...
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If your freezer has a buildup of frost, or is not maintaining the proper temperature, there may be an issue with the defrost thermostat. This device stops the evaporator coil from overheating while th...
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This genuine OEM part is the right side of the slide rail for the crisper drawer in your refrigerator. This rail is attached to your fridge wall with two screws and will require a Philips screwdriver ...
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This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
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This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
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The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
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The dispenser door solenoid is the part that controls the flapper door on your ice maker, allowing it to open and close when dispensing ice. If your ice maker is not dispensing ice or water, the door ...
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If you are experiencing temperature issues with your refrigerator, there may be an issue with the defrost heater. If this part has failed, it can cause your fridge and freezer to get too warm. It can ...
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This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for BSS25GFPDCC

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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Leaking
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Light not working
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Door won’t open or close
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Door Sweating
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Door latch failure
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Freezer too cold
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Clicking sound
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Won’t start
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Too cold
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Touchpad does not respond
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Customer:
ralph from bristow, VA
Parts Used:
WR57X33326
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
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Customer:
Gerald from San Clemente, CA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025, WR02X10552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
599 of 715 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Holly Springs, NC
Parts Used:
WR55X10942C
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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