Models > GTG15FBMCRWW

GTG15FBMCRWW General Electric Refrigerator

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Diagrams for GTG15FBMCRWW

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This grommet is found on both the front and back of the fan motor assembly for the condenser and the evaporator in your fridge. It is used to provide a buffer between the fan motor and the mounting br...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This white rubber door gasket creates an airtight seal for the refrigerator door, helping maintain temperature and energy efficiency. It replaces worn or damaged seals that cause leaks, condensation, ...
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This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the refrigerator.
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This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 17 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 9 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cri...
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This is the replacement hinge washer for your refrigerator. The hinge washer is mounted on the top of the door hinge pin, and supports the refrigerator door, allowing it to open and close easily. The ...
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This white door gasket is used to seal the freezer door when closed.
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This part is the replacement stationary wire shelf for your refrigerator. It is white in color and is approximately 24 1/2 inches by 14 3/8 inches. The stationary wire shelf rests on grooves in the re...
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Handle only.
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this part acts as a safety device against over-heating in case of mechanical failure.
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Washers NOT included.
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This is a replacement freezer handle for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 20 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The freezer handle attaches to the freezer door and all...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for GTG15FBMCRWW

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Light not working
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Will Not Start
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Clicking sound
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X37285
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
121 of 173 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jerry from Whitewright, TX
Parts Used:
WR24X10231
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Door gasket was torn at bottom from food residue
When I did the repair,fortunate for me, a nice repairman was fixing my dishwasher. He said to put the new gasket in the dryer, while I removed the old one, to make it pliable and aid in sealing. I pulled the old gasket out of the retainer clip, cleaned around the area and snapped the new gasket into place(push the raised part into the g roove). The repairman said that food residue, especially at the bottom, caused a sticky glue-like film to form. He also advised to put smear vaseline on the new gasket and wipe it off to leave a film. This would aid in sealing and keeping new the gasket from sticking.
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Customer:
Scott from Pratt, KS
Parts Used:
WR50X10071, WR51X10038
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Freezer cold, but Refrigerator not cooling. Iced up coils.
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. L ocate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!
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