Models > PCF23RGWABB

PCF23RGWABB General Electric Refrigerator

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Manuals & Guides for PCF23RGWABB

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The temperature sensor, also referred to as a thermistor, is used to monitor the refrigerator and freezer internal temperatures. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a white ...
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If your freezer has a buildup of frost, or is not maintaining the proper temperature, there may be an issue with the defrost thermostat. This device stops the evaporator coil from overheating while th...
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The evaporator fan grommet is used to provide a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket in your freezer. This genuine OEM part is about one inch in diameter and is red in color. I...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement door flap for the ice maker in your refrigerator. This part goes by many different names, including door recess assembly, ice door assembly, dispenser door, ice chute...
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The dispenser door solenoid is the part that controls the flapper door on your ice maker, allowing it to open and close when dispensing ice. If your ice maker is not dispensing ice or water, the door ...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement insert for the shelves found on your refrigerator door. This clear plastic insert fits into the front of the shelf and helps to keep bottles and containers in place. ...
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If you are experiencing temperature issues with your refrigerator, there may be an issue with the defrost heater. If this part has failed, it can cause your fridge and freezer to get too warm. It can ...
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This part is found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace this part when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
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This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
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Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
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For freezer baskets.
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for PCF23RGWABB

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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Frost buildup
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Door latch failure
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Too cold
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Won’t start
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Customer:
Gerald from San Clemente, CA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025, WR02X10552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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Customer:
Mike from Scottsdale, AZ
Parts Used:
WR50X10068, WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Freezer wouldn't maintain temperature ... got warm.
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-hel p sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)

The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.

In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
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Customer:
michele from North Smithfield, RI
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers
my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
265 of 332 people found this instruction helpful.
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