Models > ZISS42NCASS

ZISS42NCASS General Electric Refrigerator

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Diagrams for ZISS42NCASS

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The ice maker assembly makes ice by filling the tray with water from the inlet valve, freezing it until solid cubes are formed, and then ejecting them into the ice bucket. This process will repeat unt...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange.
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This water valve assembly has been redesigned. It has a new quick connect style valve. To install: Cut original plastic nuts off tubing and gently push into valve until they stop. No other nuts or connectors needed.
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This part has one port and 2 solenoids and comes with a mounting bracket. The water valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical p...
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This fill tube grommet is used on the icemaker.
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This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra...
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This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
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*Please note, this part is a substitute from the original. The valve is a new quick connect. No nuts or connectors are needed, just cut the old nuts off of the tubing and gently push them into the valve.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for ZISS42NCASS

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Ice maker not making ice
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Leaking
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
James from Centerville, OH
Parts Used:
WR57X10023
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Leaking water valve
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
8478 of 12455 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X10725
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Alan from Houston, TX
Parts Used:
WR57X10023
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Water dispenser did not work (ice-maker did work)
This is a side-by-side frige with water and ice dispenser in the left freezer door. I first checked for possible water line freezing in the freezer door or in the water chiller area (behind the vegetable drawers) as described in e-articles I had read, but this did not appear to be the problem. I found two solenoid valve pairs; one that routes dispenser or ice-maker water to the filter and the other that routes the water to the end device. I ran a couple of tests on the solenoid valves and found that the first inlet valve that sends water to the filter did not work, but the second valve that relays the water to the dispenser was still working. By temorarily connecting the wiring for the dispenser solenoid to the functioning ice-maker solenoid, I confirmed that the wiring and switch were working properly and that the problem must be the solenoid itself (it also still hummed when the dispenser button was pressed). The entire quad solenoid valve assembly can be pulled out after removing the one hex-screw on the back of the frige (the assembly is all held together with a bracket). I disconnected the wiring connector to the solenoid valves. I disconnected the plastic water tubing by pushing it toward the fitting and then depressing the tubing inlet ring to release the tubing. I removed the two screws holding the solenoid valve and replaced it.
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