PYD22KYNJFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

Simple repair, rolled refrigerator out, disconnected power, removed 4 screws holding door board, disconnected wire harness, replaced board on bench, returned to refrigerator, plugged in wire harnessing, replaced screws, plugged in, waited about 5 min. Tried door water dispense and it worked. Took a while for ice make to get up to speed, but it also works great.
After have a tech come out to look at, and he said it was freezing inside the door and needed a new door for right at $1,000.00, and nothing seem to indicate that as the problem. We took it on ourselves to try Partselect, ordered several extra parts, but only used the door board, returns went easy and i was refunded my money before I even sent the parts back. Great Service

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

After researching the likely cause online, I found that the lights inside the doors are wired in series, and if one led fails, the remaining lights dim.
I located the non working light by holding my hand in front of each light until I found the inoperative one. After receiving the replacement part, gently removed the light from the door frame with the trim removal tool, unplugged the failed light and plugged the new one in. Pressed the light back into place in the frame and all was well.

Our local appliance company was 4 weeks out for a service call and so I Rea searched this myself with help from Parts Select. Our best guess was the control module which they shipped and had in hand within 3 days time. Turn off the breaker or unplug your fridge. There are two screws to remove under the bottom front of the touchpad/control panel, toward the outside edges. Remove screws, give it a gentle tap on top and it releases. Slide it down an inch or so and the side tabs release. Unplug the two connections for the lights and then you have two or three other connection, also easy to unplug.
The control panel is attached to the rear of the touchpad by 4- star screws. Replace the old control panel with the new one and then reverse the process above to re-install and your refrigerator is ready to power up. Thanks again to Parts Select on their help confirming my diagnostics!

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?

Move the refrigerator away from the wall.
Disconnect the refrigerator.
Remove bottom drawer.
Remove two criisper drawers.
Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide.
Push slides off pin at back.
Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan.
Remove fan, held with a couple of screws.
Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan.
install new fan and bolt in place.
Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator.
Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front
Reinstall drawers.
Reconnect refrigerator power.
Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.