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GDS20KBSDBB
GDS20KBSDBB General Electric Refrigerator
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$349.66
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
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This single outlet valve has 1/4 inch compression fittings, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have ice makers that make crescent shaped ice cubes.
NOTE: As per the manufacturer this v...
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$58.37
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
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$71.11
This OEM filter is sold individually. Change your filter every 6 months for the best results. This filter is found in top-freezer and bottom-freezer refrigerators located in the back upper right corne...
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$135.11
The fan blade is not included. This motor operates the fan to help circulate the air for cooling of the compressor and the coils. It also helps to evaporate the excess water located in the drain pan.
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In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Apr 6
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Apr 6
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Common Problems and Symptoms for GDS20KBSDBB
Viewing 17 of 17Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Fridge too warm
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How to fix it
Ice maker not making ice
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How to fix it
Freezer section too warm
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How to fix it
Clicking sound
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Leaking
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Not dispensing water
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Noisy
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Light not working
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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How to fix it
Fridge runs too long
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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How to fix it
Too warm
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How to fix it
Freezer too cold
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How to fix it
Frost buildup
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- John from Holly Springs, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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- Customer:
- Alejandro from New York, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator wouldn't cool, constant clicking noise
Unplug refrigerator. First I removed 3 screws to remove cover for Board ASM Main located on back of refrigerator then loosen Board by pressing on each of 4 plastic pins then unscrew ground wire (green) then transfer all plugs from old Board to new Board, put back new board through pins, screw back ground wire then put back cover then plug
... Read more
back refrigerator, took 5 minutes
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Otisco, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Repeatedly stick in defrost, raising temps in fridge and freezer for hours at a time, some times for days. Repair tech was called out twice to look into this problem, but the temps returned to normal both times before he arrived, therefore, he never could diagnose the problem with a certainity as wh
The main board is easy to get to behind the access plate. You will find seven different wire harness plugs, six which are white, that are impossible to remove without breaking the retaining clips which hold them in place....but that's OK.....you are throwing away the old board anyway, so nothing lost. The plugs will snap back into each o
... Read more
f their respective terminal locations without a problem. Be sure to treat the four white, plastic pins that hold the board in place delicately....you will not want to mess those little dudes up!
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