Models > DSS25JFPJCC

DSS25JFPJCC General Electric Refrigerator

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This is an OEM replacement water filter for your refrigerator. The manufacturer suggests replacing this filter every 6 months or 300 gallons of water. If not replaced regularly, you will risk contamin...
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The temperature sensor, also referred to as a thermistor, is used to monitor the refrigerator and freezer internal temperatures. The sensor is a small capsule like device that is protected by a white ...
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If your freezer has a buildup of frost, or is not maintaining the proper temperature, there may be an issue with the defrost thermostat. This device stops the evaporator coil from overheating while th...
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This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
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This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
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$38.06
This authentic OEM part is a clear plastic dairy door for your refrigerator. It is found on the interior of the fridge door and rotates open and closed so that you can access the dairy compartment. If...
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This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compress...
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This OEM compression ring is used to hold the evaporator fan motor in place. Signs that you may need to replace the compression ring are if the fan is noisy, or your fridge or freezer are too warm. We...
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Note: Therm...
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$14.65
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for DSS25JFPJCC

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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Light not working
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Door latch failure
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Fixing
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Door won’t open or close
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Touchpad does not respond
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Won’t start
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Customer:
ralph from bristow, VA
Parts Used:
WR57X33326
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
1036 of 1161 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gerald from San Clemente, CA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025, WR02X10552
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
606 of 736 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
John from Holly Springs, NC
Parts Used:
WR55X10942C
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
561 of 652 people found this instruction helpful.
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