Models > GTS22JBPC

GTS22JBPC General Electric Refrigerator

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This drawer slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for the crisper drawer shelf in your refrigerator. This rail is for the left-hand side of the shelf assembly. If you need to replace both sides...
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$15.26
This genuine OEM replacement part is a bumper for your refrigerator. The bumper is made of orange rubber and measures less than half an inch in diameter. The bumper is used to prevent the fan motor fr...
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This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
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This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty sock...
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This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one s...
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this part acts as a safety device against over-heating in case of mechanical failure.
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This part is the replacement compressor start relay for your refrigerator. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches long and 1 inch wide. The compressor start relay attaches to the ...
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Also known as Heater Conduction.
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This is a replacement pack of sheet metal screws for your refrigerator. These are Phillips-head screws, and are approximately ¾ of an inch long. This package contains 12 screws. These screws are typic...
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Keep your refrigerator running efficiently with this replacement door gasket. Made of flexible white material, it fits around the fresh food compartment door to block warm air and maintain proper cool...
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for GTS22JBPC

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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Not dispensing water
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Won’t start
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Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Christian from Kearneysville, WV
Parts Used:
WR55X24064, WR2X9391
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
No power to the fan and compressor
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Scott from Pratt, KS
Parts Used:
WR50X10071, WR51X10038
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Freezer cold, but Refrigerator not cooling. Iced up coils.
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. L ocate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!
77 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Sam from Cooper City, AL
Parts Used:
WR07X26748
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Freezer & Frig Were Not Cold
First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the ot her lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.
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