FGUI2149LE1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.

I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.

I removed the drawer from the support rails and placed it aside. I then removed the entire shelf that the rails were attached to. Each rail contained one (1) screw. I removed the screw, slid the support rails back approximately a 1/4 inch and they popped out. I replaced with the new rails, sliding them into place in reverse of how I removed the damaged ones & attached with the screw. I cleaned the shelf off and placed it back in the refrigerator, and placed the meat drawer onto the new rails. It actually took longer to clean the shelf than perform the repair.

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

I had put in a new ice maker and it still had the problem, (I needed the Ice maker anyway) I installed the vale and while I was at it I put a five year filter on the water line that went from the value to the Ice maker, it took less than one hours, the ice is making like it did when it was new, I could not be more please at theis time. Thanks for your Interest. God bless.

I simply snapped in the new part. It took a few seconds. I would like to say that I found the part using the model number of the fridge. When I went to look at the description it said the part was 26 inches. The one I had was only 24 3/4 inches. I called you guys and was told that this was the correct part and to ignore the measuement.
You were Right! the part fitted perfectly.

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video

Lifted out old part, removed glass shelf and slid it into position in new frame. Reploaced the frame in refridgerator. Slid plastic storage bins into place. Job Done.

Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

I removed a couple of screws from the old part, and inserted the new part. Replaced the screws and I was done. No problem. I'm an almost 60 year old woman, and fixed this myself. It was so easy.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Frig area was at about 50 degrees and would not get cooler. Freezer was working great.
Empty the freezer and remove the two screws that hold the back panel of the inside of the freezer on. Pull the panel out and you will see the fan that is mounted to the back of the panel. If the fan is not running, disconnect it (quick connector) and check to see if there is voltage coming to it from the connector (should be 120VAC between the two wires). If there is power, and the fan was not working, replace the fan.

Fan just snaps into the holder on the back panel and plugs into the quick connector. Make sure you clear any ice build-up in the hole between the freezer and the frig that the fans blows through. Put it back together and verify the fan runs.

The lower compartment was hovering around 50 degrees. Logic told me that cold air was not being driven from the freezer to the lower compartment. At first, I found the passageway between freezer and lower compartment was blocked with frost/ice, which could have been the entire problem. But why was that ice accumulated there? After defrosting, the problem was only partly solved. A few how-to videos suggested that the defrost timer was a common problem, so I tried that, the part was about $11, with minimal improvement. So I concluded that the fan was not driving cold air from the freezer to the lower section. I tested the fan by removing the freezer back panel completely, wiring the fan to an old ordinary power cord, and plugging that in to a wall outlet. The fan would not start on its own, would only turn if I gave it a spin, and then was very weak - I could stop it with a finger without pain! When my new fan arrived, I again removed the back panel in the freezer and replaced the fan, just a few screws to remove, then swap the fan blade to the new fan motor. The process was simple and obvious. Now the lower section stays near 40 degrees, though I'm not convinced that's the only problem-there seems to be a lot of variation in the temperature. BTW, I had also confirmed the defrost heating element was functional by activating the defrost timer (see youtube), to eliminate that from the diagnosis.