This part includes one refrigerator door shelf end cap, which is compatible with either the left or right side. This durable white plastic part is sourced directly from the original manufacturer and i...
If your freezer will not defrost, or your fridge and freezer are too warm, there may be an issue with the defrost timer. This device helps to melt ice that builds up on the evaporator coils. It does t...
If your door shelf retainer bar is not staying in place you may need to replace the end cap. The end cap helps secure the bar in place on the refrigerator door. This end cap can be used for the left o...
This 40-watt light bulb has a standard screw-in base and is used in many different appliances. If your current bulb is burnt out or broken you will need to replace it. This light bulb is a genuine OEM...
This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to rep...
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Simon
January 30, 2025
defrost doesn't work
For model number MRT18GRGW1
Hi Simon,
Thank you for your question. If your refrigerator is not defrosting, you will need to check the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater, for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting to see which part is causing the issue. For the defrost timer, place one probe on the common terminal, labeled 3 or C, and touch the other probe to the other three terminals, one at a time. The first pair should produce a reading of zero, or near zero, denoting continuity. The second pair may also result in a reading of zero or near zero. Testing the third pair of terminals should produce a reading of infinity. If you do not receive these readings, you will need a replacement defrost timer. For the defrost thermostat, Place each of the probes on a thermostat wire. If the thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero. If the thermostat temperature is between forty to ninety degrees F, then you should receive a reading of infinity. If you get different results, then the defrost thermostat will need to be replaced. For the defrost heater, place the probes on each terminal. You should receive a reading between zero and infinity. If you receive a reading of zero or infinity, you will need a replacement defrost heater. We hope this helps!
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
First I removed the top screws, then I slide it off the lower screw that is hidden behind the handle. I replaced the handle by sliding it onto the bottem first then attaching it onto the top with the two top screws.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including th
... Read moree brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!
