CRSE266FW3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

swap filter

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Replaced bottom door bin being careful not to put stress on the tabs to fit into molded area in door.

Easy slide it back in place

We live in rural SW Missouri, so I am very dependent on the internet. I found PartSelect on a Google search and simply inputted the modle number and serial number for the refrigerator and there it was. I was able to order the right part the first time and repair the refrigerator myself! No serviceman needed here!

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

The website was easy to navigate. Loved the schematic drawings of the appliance, it made it easy to find the part you are looking for without the guesswork (part names are sometimes not intuitive). My parts arrived promptly, the price was competitive, everything fit beautifly as expected. Would recommend this merchant, will shop there again. THANKS !

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

I had two problems, the first was that water was dripping from the through the door outlet and the second problem is that the ice maker wasn't making ice.

Replacing the water valve was a simple process:

1. Turn off the water to the fridge at the household shutoff valve.
2. Move the fridge away from the wall.
3. Unplug the mains power (AC) plug from the wall power outlet.
4. Remove the 5 screws with a nut driver that hold the cardboard backing off the refrigerator.
5. (This is a great time to vacuum off the coils and underside of the fridge.) Disconnect the water supply from household plumbing with a box end wrench or channel lock pliers. I kept a large plastic cup and rag handy for the left over water in these hoses.
6. Remove the two screws from the water valve bracket on the right hand side and pull the water valve straight back from the fridge and line up the new valve in the same orientation.
7. Remove all the color coded electrical connectors (3 of them) and attach them to the new water valve.
8. Remove the remaining water hoses and attach them to the corresponding connectors on the new valve.
9. Dispose of the old valve and reinstall the new valve in reverse order.

The problem with the ice maker not making ice was because water was flowing so slowly from the valve that it was stopping in the fill tube at the back of the freezer and freezing stopping all water flow into the ice maker. I pulled the fill tube out of the back of the freezer from behind by rotating it 45 degrees counter clockwise and pulling straight out removing the ice blockage and drying the fill tube before I reinstalled.

Since I replaced the valve I had to take the cover off of the icemaker and set the water fill level down (screw toward the minus sign) and then adjusted it by checking the ice after each time it dropped and increasing the fill amount by 1 full turn (roughly 0.7 ounces) until it was just enough to make fully formed ice cubes.

I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)

No tools needed. Just had to slide the bin into place. HOWEVER, the bin has a jig-jagged style plastic groves on each side that need to be slide carefully into place. I couldn't get the orginal bin out in order to wash it. It looked easy - just slide it up and out of place, but when I did that the back, inter-locking pieces cracked off. I believe this is a terrible design and the bin should be replaced at the manufactures cost! The other bin slide in there with some elbow-grease. Good Luck!

First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.

removed screws,removed broken parts and installed new parts.