F71C12PHS0 (V0) Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the bottom cover plate. Disconnect the water inlet and black rubber hose. Remove 2 mounting screws. Pull out electrical connector. Reverse order. Be sure to get the brass inlet connector really tight so it won't leak. I did the final tightning after the part is mounted. Not a bad repair at all. The only problem was that it leaked in the first place and messed up my subfloor and laminate flooring.

Took the roller out of the package, snapped it into place. Less than 15 seconds. Works good as new.

I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

First I removed and replaced the gasket around the tub. It didn't require any tools and took about 2 minutes to complete. I didn't really need to replace the gasket but it came with the latch kit so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Than I removed only the top door panel (6 screws) and supported it while I removed the broken latch (2 Torx screws). I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the wires off the old latch (keeping track of where each wire came from) then plugged the wires onto the new latch and screwed it back to the door. Put the door panel back in place with the 6 screws I had removed earlier and I was done. it all took about 15 minutes and the wife is so glade she is not doing dishes by hand anymore that she left me alone for the rest of the night.

Over Thanksgiving, the spray arm in my dishwasher apparently popped off and was partially melted. I remounted it inside the dishwasher, but the new hole was on the side of the arm. I think this resulted in water being sprayed directly against the door and not up through the top holes. It flooded my kitchen floor.

The spray arm pops on and off with plastic tabs (?) at the base. You can lightly pry with a butter knife or simply wiggle it off. The new one popped right on. Easiest repair EVER.

The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

The repair was extremely easy!!!!!!!! All I had to do was unscrew the 6 screws on the inside of the door panel. After that I had to unscrew the 2 screws that attached the latch to the panel. Once they were off I just pulled off the 4 wires from the old latch and slid them back on the corresponding metal "tongs" of the new latch. I attached the latch to the panel with the 2 screws. After that I pushed the panel back onto the door and screwed the 6 screws back in......voila.....all done(-:

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

This was the second part of repair. Left side was constantly falling out of the slide. I replaced the same items as above minus the gasket and screw kit. Once done, the right side was sloppy so I orders part for that side plus gasket which slid right in.
1. Removed stops on front end of Upper Dishrack Slide on both sides.
2. Removed Upper Dishrack
3. Remove Roller and Axle/clip (4 each)
4. Push Roller onto Axle on all 4 kits
5. Install all 4 roller kits on Upper Dishrack
6. Remove stops from back end of Upper Dishrack Slides.
7. Remove both Slides
8. Remove 8 each Tub Wheels.
9. Using old or new Screws and Washers, install new Tub Wheels.
10. Install both Upper Dishrack Slides ensuring that small holes are toward the back.
11. Install stops on the back end of Slides.
12 Install Upper Dishrackinto slides
13. Install front stops on slide
14. Pulled out Gasket
15. Install replaced Gasket

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

It was easy to replace the latch. 4 screws to take the cover off... two star screws for the latch assy. and 4 wires. NOTE: be sure to kill the power to the washer