Models > FRU17B2JW6

FRU17B2JW6 Frigidaire Refrigerator

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Diagrams for FRU17B2JW6

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Manuals & Guides for FRU17B2JW6

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$58.36
The screws and trims are NOT included with this handle.
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If your refrigerator is not maintaining a consistent temperature, or there is frost building up, you may need to replace the defrost timer. The 120V defrost timer is a genuine OEM part that acts like ...
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
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This is an adjustable foot for your freezer, refrigerator, and dryer. This part supports your unit by screwing into one of the bottom four corners, and adjusting the height of your machine. If your ap...
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Sold individually.
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$14.93
This multi-use screw fits various appliances and tools such as, freezers, refrigerators, wall ovens, washers, ranges, dishwashers, dryers, microwave oven combos, combos, wine and beverage coolers. *Pl...
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These are used to hold your gasket in place.
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This part is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation to keep the cooling coils from frosting over. The thermostat must be rep...
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This is a temperature sensing mechanism. It can sense the rise in evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and cycles the defrost heater off after all frost is melted from the coils.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for FRU17B2JW6

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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Won’t start
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Door won’t open or close
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Doesn’t stop running
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Customer:
Louise from Ocala, FL
Parts Used:
5304507200
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Ice and frost were forming in a frost free freezer
The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.
74 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Wayne from Forest Hill, MD
Parts Used:
5304518034
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Temp alarm sounding and food on top shelves partially thawed
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the n turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.

After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.

I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Nathan M. from Bunnell, FL
Parts Used:
297309000
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Freezer thawing at about 20 degrees
Turned freezer off at themostat and unplugged freezer. Removed 2 screws at front 2 at the back and 2 at the top. Lowered top cover and removed evaporator fan bracket (2 more screws) removed themostat capulary tube( 1 screw and bracket) then unplug fan motor. Removed motor from bracket (2 screws). Put on new fan motor then removed fan b lade from old motor and put on the new motor. Remounted fan motor bracket and thermostat capulary tube. Remounted top cover, plugged freezer in the set the thermostat to 4 and freezer is working fine and doing its job. I orderedmotor on a Sunday and it was shipped on Monday and I received said part at 7:pm on Wednesday.
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