Models > CB19G6W00W5

CB19G6W00W5 Crosley Refrigerator

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Diagrams for CB19G6W00W5

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This part is the center crisper drawer slide rail which helps to support the crisper drawers in your refrigerator. If you have difficulty opening or closing your crispers, the center slide rail may be...
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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Also known as a duck bill. This kit includes the tube extension piece and spacer.
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$27.65
This part includes one authentically sourced 3-pin rocker switch for a refrigerator. It is responsible for turning the light on inside the fridge when the door is open. It is commonly replaced because...
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Screws NOT included.
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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Sold individually. This crisper drawer is for refrigerators. Crisper drawer stores fruits and vegetables at a humidity level that helps keep them fresh longer.
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This is a deli drawer glide for the right side of your refrigerator. It allows the deli drawer to glide in and out smoothly. In order to access your glider, you will have to remove drawer and shelf, a...
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This is a replacement pan glide for your refrigerator. The pan glide can be found attached to the refrigerator shelf, and allows the pan to slide in and out efficiently. If your refrigerator pan will ...
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$7.76
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CB19G6W00W5

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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Not dispensing water
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Fridge too cold
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Won’t start
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
394 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ruth from Roxbury, MA
Parts Used:
WPW10671238
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Cracked & Snapped Center Crisper Rail
A very easy fix took all of five minutes
226 of 245 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Cheryl K from Pinellas Park, FL
Parts Used:
WP67003426
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The refrigerator was not getting cold and the coils were not defrosting.
Start by removing the freezer door and inner baskets so you have some space. Next, take out the ice maker by removing the 3 screws that attach it to the side and unplug it from the harness. Then the cover for the thermistor and the fan vent should be popped off carefully leaving the back cover only. The back cover is held on by 4 screw s, one in each corner. Remove all 4 screws and carefully loosen the back cover by pulling the top forward and laying it level to pull it out. Behind the cover are the coils and other components. If the coils are covered with ice they should be defrosted by using a blow dryer. Once the ice is clear, the thermostat is located towards the top left clamped onto a copper pipe that circles up and around. Carefully pull it off the pipe and cut the wires making sure you leave enough to reattach the new ones with a butt connector. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the wires and crimp both ends into the butt connector making sure they are tight. Heat shrink is highly recommended. Clamp the new thermostat to the copper pipe where the old one used to be and your almost done. Replace the back cover the opposite of the way it was pulled out by putting it in flat with the bottom part in front. Once it is all the way to where it needs to be, push the top upwards while sliding the bottom downwards, then push it in flat against the back. It can be bent slightly if needed. Put the screws back in that hold it on and replace the plastic covers. Then reinstall the ice maker being sure the hose for the water is correctly positioned so that the water goes into the ice maker. Turn it back on and put the baskets and door back on and you're done.
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