GFS162/MN10 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the racks in the freezer. The rack supports on the sides lift off without tools. The evaporator cover is at the back of the freezer. 4 phillips head screws. The cover lifts up then forward to expose the evaporator, evaporator fan and duct. The duct is held by 3 hex head screws. The evaporator fan is attached to the duct with a wiring pigtail to a plug. Unplug the fan and remove the duct. The fan is held by 2 hexhead screws. The new fan is put in place and assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. The unit is quiet and cools properly now. The new part fit perfectly.

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

After unplugging the fridge, I removed all the phillips head screws from the evaporator fan housing as well as the back cover and the bottom of the freezer compartment (7) in all. After first removing the bottom cover - then the back cover I could access the evaporator fan unit. This was held in place with two hex-head screws that were easily removed with a nut driver. Then after unplugging the Red, White, and Green wires from the fan I removed it and replaced it with the new one. I did have to break off the two ends of the mounting bracket as described in the instruction sheet since it was too wide. Repeating the above steps in reverse, I had the job done and refridgerator up and running as quiet as could be in less than 15 minutes.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

First I Removed the racks. Next 3 hex bolts that secured the ice maker. Undid the ponytail wiring. 3 Phillips screws to remove the metal back. unplugged the Evaporator Fan Motor. Replaced the new one. reassembled.

Unplugged the fridge, emptied the freezer, removed the panel screws, removed the fan assembly retaining nuts, slid the spade wire connectors from the tabs, and performed these tasks in reverse to have the fridge up and running like new. I am not an appliance repair person, but I am not intimidated by simple repairs. Your instructions were easy to follow, and the cry in the kitchen of "we need a new refrigerator" was silenced for less than $50.00. Thanks!

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

unplugged refrig.
removed screws on back panel of freezer compartment

removed fan motor cover

removed fan

broke ends off support bracket in accordance with directions

had to pull more of old ground wire out of back of refrigerator to get it to reach ground clip on new fan

plugged all 3 wires into fan motor

replaced covers

every thing works fine now.

part was delivered quite promptly

refrigerator was over 30 years old and a sears model but mfg by whirlpool

unpluged unit, removed 2 panel screws, removed 4 fan screws, disconnected wires, reassembled

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.