Models > BC20KW

BC20KW (P7812502W) Amana Refrigerator

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This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat itself is a little over an inch long whi...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Jun 13
This gasket is a little over thirty inches long and is a little over twenty-four inches wide. It is all white in color and is made of rubber. This gasket is used for a refrigerator's freezer door.
Special Order
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-seven minutes after every ten hours of run time. It comes with 2 screws and 2 nuts.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Jun 13
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Special Order
Clips are no longer available separately.
No Longer Available
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This white gasket is used to keep the cool air inside the refrigerator and the room air out.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for BC20KW

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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
James from Canyon Country, CA
Parts Used:
WP10442411
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Frig was hot freezer was cold. Freezer was fronzen over.
The frig was hot but the freezer was cold. I opened the back of the freezer and found the condenser all frozen over. Upon inspecting the defrost thermostat I found that it was split open, as if water got into it and the froze breaking it open. I used a blow dryer to defrost the condenser. I then spent a long time trying to find the model on-line, even the manufactor said it did not exist. Partselect.com was the only place that said the model did exist. When that part came in I toke the back of the freezer out again. Unplugged the defrost thermostat plugged the new one in clipped it back on the condenser and put the it all back together. Everything is working fine now.
100 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Davis Junction, IL
Parts Used:
WP10442411
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Refrigerator was warm, freezer was cold.
I removed the shelves from the freezer. I unscrewed 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver and removed the back panel. The coil was solid ice because the defrost cycle wasn't working. I thawed the ice with a hairdryer (5 minutes), unplugged the thermostat and installed the new one (it simply clipped on to the coils), and reassembled the back panel and installed the shelves. Total time, about 14 minutes. Total cost, less than $20.00. I can't even get an appliance repairman to show up at my door for less than $100.00! Thanks to your website, I was able to diagnose my problem, order the correct part and fix it myself! (I bookmarked your site under my favorites). Thanks for this great consumer service. It's easy, inexpensive and quick to do it yourself!
39 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Serge from Richmond, CA
Parts Used:
WP10442411
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer was not defrosting and the refrigerator was warming up.
This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. First I unplugged the refrigerator. I then removed the wire shelf and wire tray from the freezer. I then removed the ice maker be removing the three screws that hold it in place. I then disconnected the icemaker electrical connector. I then removed the 7 screws that hold the panel at the back of the freezer revealing the evaporator and heat exchanger. I then unclipped the icemaker wiring harness from the panel. The whole evaporator/heat exchanger was buried in ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. This took about half an hour. The bi-metal thermostat is attached to the heat exchanger by a clip. Be sure to wear latex gloves to prevent cutting your fingers on the aluminum fins. I disconnected the electrical connectors and then carefully unclipped the thermostat. I discovered that the new thermostat had spade connectors where as the original had one spade connector and a bullet connector on the brown wire. I reused the original bullet connector by cutting it off the old thermostat and splicing it onto the new thermostat. I reversed the process for reassembly. There is no longer any ice build up and the refrigerator is working normally.
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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