Models > BZ20RE-P1161504WE

BZ20RE-P1161504WE Amana Refrigerator

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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This condenser fan motor is used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compresso...
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This white rubber gasket fits onto the freezer door to create a tight seal and keep cold air in. It’s compatible with many Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, and Amana refrigerators. Replacing a worn gask...
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This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
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This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat itself is a little over an inch long whi...
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The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
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This refrigerator door handle is twenty-one inches long. It is made of metal, but does not come with the white decorative handle insert or screws.
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This part helps support the crisper drawer lid.
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This door gasket is white and made of rubber. It measures approximately thirty-one and a half inches wide by thirty-eight and a half inches long.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for BZ20RE-P1161504WE

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Fridge too warm
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Light not working
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door Sweating
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Fridge runs too long
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Clicking sound
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Door won’t open or close
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Leaking
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Door latch failure
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Won’t start
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Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
436 of 549 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Tom from Franklin, WI
Parts Used:
833697
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
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Customer:
Jeffrey from Palo Alto, CA
Parts Used:
WP12550116Q
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer door gasket needed replacing
Unplug refrigerator. Open freezer door. Lift the old gasket from the edge closest to the center of the door to expose the hex-head screws. Get a nut driver the appropriate size (1/4" if I remember) and loosen, but do not remove all of the screws. Once loosened, the old gasket can be removed. Slip the new gasket in just like the old o ne was. Lift the edges closest to the center of the door and tighten the screws. Test the fit of the new gasket by closing the door and sighting carefully down each of the four seal lines. Typically there will be spots where there are gaps, that is, the gasket is not "pulled out" enough to contact the refrigerator body. This is due to kinks that occur to the gasket during shipping. A paper that comes with the gasket notes the effect and recommends using a hair dryer to remove the kinks. Although the recommendation is to use the dryer BEFORE putting the gasket on, I used the dryer after, when I could see exactly where the gaps were. After noting the spots, open the door and with the dryer on HIGH setting, wave the hot air stream back and forth for a minute or two on each spot. Pull each spot out by hand with the hot air off and if/when the gasket is cool enough to touch but still warm. Close the door, inspect and repeat the process if necessary. I was able to achieve a good seal all the way around this way.
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