This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
The lower door closing cam raises the door to keep it from touching the refrigerator liner when the door is closed. It fits both the left and right side of the refrigerator door. The most common reaso...
This clear convertible meat drawer is for the lower part of the refrigerator. It has an air duct that allows cold air to flow into the drawer from the freezer. It can be used to store meats and vegeta...
Your refrigerator water and ice filter should be replaced at least every 6 months, to prevent water that has an undesirable taste and odor, or if left for too long, can cause leaks and ice maker malfu...
This is a genuine OEM replacement slide out shelf with glass for your refrigerator. The plastic frame and glass are only sold together and are not available separately. This is a standalone shelf and ...
The bi-metal defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator, and its purpose is to protect the evaporator from overheating when the defrost cycle is running. If there is frost building up in your fr...
If you need a new bucket for your ice maker, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Over time and with regular use, the ice bucket can become cracked and not function properly. If this happens the bu...
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
If you need to replace the glass shelf in your refrigerator, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. Please note that this is strictly the glass shelf insert. The plastic shelf frame is not included b...
If the crisper pan inside your fridge has become damaged, this is a genuine OEM replacement part. The crisper drawer is used to hold fruits and vegetables in a humidity-controlled environment. If the ...
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Beverly
April 27, 2022
There is a small door at the bottom near the floor of the freezer that pops open and a red arrow shows. I don't know what that means and it won't close.
For model number ASD2575BRS01
Hello Beverly, Thank you for the question. That would be where the Water Filter goes. If the door will not shut, the filter may have popped out and is blocking the door. If the filter is under 6 months old, you may just need to reinsert it. If the filter is only 6 months old, it will need to be changed. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Like always your products were ordered and came extremely fast. The installation was quick. No tools needed this time. Now we have 3 door bins where we had two broken ones. Our refrigerator is more organized than ever. Thanks again!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
