AFD2535DEB Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.

Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.

unplugged refrigerator and shut off water, removed one screw and loosened two more, after removing one side of the ice bucket rail, unplugged electrical from old ice maker. Then I removed the bail and out on new one, reinstalled ice maker in reverse order from taking it out.

Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.

I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.

Removed the fruit & veggie drawers & the deli (pantry) drawer. Took out the 3 screws, removed the attached parts, put them on the replacement part, reattached it and put the drawers back in.

Here's the part I want to share: PartSelect had a expanded diagram showing the correct part and sufficiently detailed to figure out the repair before the part arrived. That's why I ordered from them. Secondly, I ordered the part Thursday morning--and the thing was sitting on my porch when I came back in from my evening out Saturday--2 days later!!!

My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)

The hard part for me was figuring out which part was causing the problem. I read what others had done and followed their test methods. I checked the defroster heater for continuity and the defroster thermostat to make sure it was closing. the defroster termostat has to be cold to check it. You will need to check it while it is in ice or take it out and put it in another freezer for 30 mins and then check it for continuity. Those items checked out ok so it had to be the control board. The control board is a 5 min job to replace but making sure that is your problem is the hard part. I think the control board was bad due to a power surge we had when the power went out and came back on. It might be a good idea to put a surge protector on your home to protect your fridge and all your other electronic stuff. Our refrigerator is now working like new again. Thank you for all your help, Jim

Remove food off of lower shelf, remove the two produce drawers, remove large lower drawer, remove glass shelf, remove three screws holding end cap in place. Once end cap was removed the drawer track could be removed and placed on new end cap. Installation of new end cap took less than 5 minutes. Most of the time spent was removing/replacing food and cleaning the shelf/bins. PartSelect was awesome BTW!

I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!

Start by removing the freezer door and inner baskets so you have some space. Next, take out the ice maker by removing the 3 screws that attach it to the side and unplug it from the harness. Then the cover for the thermistor and the fan vent should be popped off carefully leaving the back cover only. The back cover is held on by 4 screws, one in each corner. Remove all 4 screws and carefully loosen the back cover by pulling the top forward and laying it level to pull it out. Behind the cover are the coils and other components. If the coils are covered with ice they should be defrosted by using a blow dryer. Once the ice is clear, the thermostat is located towards the top left clamped onto a copper pipe that circles up and around. Carefully pull it off the pipe and cut the wires making sure you leave enough to reattach the new ones with a butt connector. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the wires and crimp both ends into the butt connector making sure they are tight. Heat shrink is highly recommended. Clamp the new thermostat to the copper pipe where the old one used to be and your almost done. Replace the back cover the opposite of the way it was pulled out by putting it in flat with the bottom part in front. Once it is all the way to where it needs to be, push the top upwards while sliding the bottom downwards, then push it in flat against the back. It can be bent slightly if needed. Put the screws back in that hold it on and replace the plastic covers. Then reinstall the ice maker being sure the hose for the water is correctly positioned so that the water goes into the ice maker. Turn it back on and put the baskets and door back on and you're done.

First thing to do is take two screws off where the door closes.I removed the light sheild off by pushing it to back of refrig.The most hardest part is removing the complete panel,I took a small flat blade scraper to ply down to get small access than you need to put alot of pressure to start getting the panel to start coming off there are alot of pegs to free,the back panel has two hinges that slide towards the front.Once the panel drops remove the connectors and take entire unit out,very easy to replace the control board at this point.Installation is easy slide the two hinges on back in place and put pressure on unit to snap entire unit in place.Program unit with paperwork that came with part very easy to do.Frig is working great now.Just a note the paperwork on refrig is located in the front right corner the mf hids it ,this information will allow you to check all problems with refrig using the key pads for freezer/refrig.Good luck.

Overload relay accessible from back, by compressor unit. Very easy to change out. Diagram from your site placed defrost thermostat in same area.It wasn't. Found another diagram, showed it in refrigerator light area, took that apart, not there. Yet another diagram showed it in the duct work area at back of refrigerator cabinet. Not there. Finally removed back of freezer compartment, found thermistor and thermostat with the fins. Clipped wires, wired in parts, quick fix. Longest amount of time was spent finding the old parts to replace them. Actual replacement took less than 15 minutes. Refrigerator holding at 35 degrees set on 2 now, better than ever. Total cost, less than $120, doing iy ourselves....priceless.

Remove Crisper drawers from Bottom Shelf.
Remove glass from the top of Bottom Shelf.
Drop new Crisper frame center rail into slots on the top of the Bottom Shelf shelf.
Replace glass onto the top of the Bottom Shelf.
Slide drawers between left and right guides and the Crisper frame center rail.

Total repair time less than one minute.
No tools required.

The switch-out of the water filter was simple with good instructions on the box.
The part was delivered very, very quickly!