ABB1921FEB11 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

A very easy fix took all of five minutes

Start by removing the freezer door and inner baskets so you have some space. Next, take out the ice maker by removing the 3 screws that attach it to the side and unplug it from the harness. Then the cover for the thermistor and the fan vent should be popped off carefully leaving the back cover only. The back cover is held on by 4 screws, one in each corner. Remove all 4 screws and carefully loosen the back cover by pulling the top forward and laying it level to pull it out. Behind the cover are the coils and other components. If the coils are covered with ice they should be defrosted by using a blow dryer. Once the ice is clear, the thermostat is located towards the top left clamped onto a copper pipe that circles up and around. Carefully pull it off the pipe and cut the wires making sure you leave enough to reattach the new ones with a butt connector. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the wires and crimp both ends into the butt connector making sure they are tight. Heat shrink is highly recommended. Clamp the new thermostat to the copper pipe where the old one used to be and your almost done. Replace the back cover the opposite of the way it was pulled out by putting it in flat with the bottom part in front. Once it is all the way to where it needs to be, push the top upwards while sliding the bottom downwards, then push it in flat against the back. It can be bent slightly if needed. Put the screws back in that hold it on and replace the plastic covers. Then reinstall the ice maker being sure the hose for the water is correctly positioned so that the water goes into the ice maker. Turn it back on and put the baskets and door back on and you're done.

This is the 2nd time I have used PartSelect, and this experience was as pleasant as the 1st. The exploded-view diagrams make parts identification very easy; and the photo of the actual part is such a great idea, it allows you to verify what you need. I also got my part (cross country, in 3 days)

Repair Procedure: Shut off water supply. It may be easier to work if you disconnect the water supply tube, but it is not required. On the backside of the refrigerator, remove the bottom, black plastic protection panel. You will need a nut driver or battery-powered screw driver with a 3/8" socket tip on it. Next, remove the black metal panel that holds the water inlet valve in place. Remove screws with a nut driver. 1st remove the two flat-pin power connectors. (They are different sizes and color-coded, so there is no room for making a re-hookup mistake). Then proceed to remove the hoses. The hoses are pressure-lock tubing, so push the plastic disk in or down where the tube goes into the main body of the valve. Do this for all three hoses (tubes). Switch water valves and reverse the procedure. **Be certain that the tubes are pushed back in as far as they can go; if you do not re-seat the tubes, the pressure from the water going back in the valve, will blow the tubes right out the valve (ask me how I know this!). Once reassembled, turn the water back on slowly. Make sure you turn the water supply valve all the way open, it seats itself internally when you do and is less prone to drip leaks. That's it! (As a former kitchen remodeler, I find this a great DIY project).

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took me over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.

We have a bottom freezer refridgerator that kept having ice build-up in the freezer. We thought it was being caused by people (kids) not fully closing the freezer door. The ice build-up was really thick especially behind the rear cover. i defrosted the freezer about 3 times and it kept happening. We replace the timer (PS2065577) and have not had a problem since. The timer is actually in the refridgerator compartment , but controls the defrost cycle in the freezer.

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

removed old rail,lifted glass panel above and inserted new rail-voila!!done.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell