Models > 19864B

19864B Admiral Refrigerator

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Diagrams for 19864B

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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The capacitor, also known as a run capacitor, is a component in your fridge that allows the compressor to cycle on and off to maintain a constant temperature. If your fridge and freezer are too warm i...
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Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is a multi-use screw mostly used in dryers. It has a diameter of #10, length of one inch, and thread size of 16. Remember to follow safety practices and instructions provided in the manufacturer ...
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The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve ...
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$7.91
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
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This 48 cube ice cube tray is eleven inches long. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
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$5.42
Sold individually.
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This kickplate mounting clip is designed for use with refrigerators. The purpose of this clip is to hold the kickplate in place, they also make it easy to remov...
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This is a compression nut for your refrigerator/freezer. The compression nut is used with the plastic water line for the icemaker assembly. It is the connection between the water supply line and the o...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This is a door shelf trim retainer designed for use with refrigerators. The purpose of the retainer is to hold the door shelf in place on the door. This replace...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 19864B

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Noisy
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
garth from forest lake, MN
Parts Used:
WPW10662129
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
394 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Clint from Rayville, MO
Parts Used:
W11384469
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
118 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Kevin from Boston, MA
Parts Used:
4318047
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
no water getting to ice maker
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai r in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
80 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
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