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RS363PXYH2
RS363PXYH2 Whirlpool Range
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$19.75
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that you replace the burner receptacle at the same time.
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The manufacturer suggests replacing the receptacle at the same time.
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$87.81
This part is what tells the dryer to stop running when the door is open.
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$81.30
This partially open curved style bake element is 15 inches long and 19-1/4 inches wide. The terminals are 13 inches apart and they have a depth of 3-3/4 inches.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for RS363PXYH2
Viewing 3 of 3Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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How to fix it
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8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap
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. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
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1 had 2 large burners not working at all, and was cooking everything on the 2 smaller burners
It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Malvern, AR
- Parts Used:
- W10900107
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner would not heat
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the
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right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.
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