GW395LEGB4 Whirlpool Range

I removed the oven door by lifting it off with the hinges. Disassembled the door parts one at time making sure I remember where I removed the screws until I am able to get to the broken glass. The most difficult part is making sure that the insulation strip & the gasket stayed in place after I replaced the broken glass & doing the reverse ... Read more process of installing the parts together. Relatively easy process as long as you remember where the parts go. When in doubt, I had to refer to the pictorial of the disassembled door shown on your website.

Although the ignitors glowed brilliant yellow I learned from an expert there are 2 fail modes. 1. that they break and don't glow well enough to ignite the gas or 2. they get resistive over the years and do not pass enough current to open the valve. This is important to know because the current passes through the ignitor before it gets t ... Read more o the valve. If the ignitor resists too much then the valve never gets enough power to open. As evidence you get slow ignitions until one day it stops altogether.

There are 2 ignitors in this oven. one for the broiler and 1 for the oven. The broiler is exposed so easily removed. For the oven you need to remove the flame spreader cover and the flame spreader. Need a good screw driver for all the screws in the oven because they get corroded from the hostile environment and also the factory torques them in pretty good when new. It is hard to get leverage leaning into an oven without leaning on the oven door which could unhinge it. With a good screw driver and getting a good seat into the screw you can break it loose. Then some muscle power to get it out. 1 screw refused to come out all the way so I grabbed it with some pliers and pulled and twisted it out. A trick I learned from my days as a mechanic is to use valve lapping compound on the screw driver. The diamond dust bites into the screw for a grip on those really bad ones.

The last tricky part is you have to remove the back cover on the oven, unplug the wires and pull the ignitor out through the oven. When you see the wires in the back you will see insulation packing.
Hint: If your smart you will tie a string to the wires before you pull it though so it is easier to pull the new ignitor wires back the same way. Else you need to use a stick to feel your way through the insulation packing to find the wires.

Hardest part of this job is undoing the screws. The rest is easy.

First, layed tape across all broken glass to keep glass from shattering more and releasing more bits of glass. Pull up and out the oven door. Had table set aside covered with an old sheet to lay door on, After laying door on table, Removed outer screws. Needed phillips #2 & #3 tip widths and electric screwdriver, for inner screws that whe ... Read more re difficult to remove. Making notes of what came off first! ( (rt & left, bottom,/top) when removing metal frame braces, and in what order they go in when reassembled . Did the same with screws & set them aside in groups. Then marked the groups of screws. Removed the metal door panel. Carefully removed the in between panel of glass. Set Outer glass aside along with metal "door"and inner door glass,and proped them up in a safe place. Carefully removed the broken & shattered inside glass wearing rubber gloves. Had a garbage can next to the table to with news paper to wrap glass. Cleaned area. Replaced glass taking care not to tighted screws so much as to break the glass. Put added insulation.(Whcih was not the same as in diagram), around the edge. put back the inner glass panel, care not to leave prints, tighten screw ( care not to break glass) Cleaned the door sides and bottom, all had alot of grease buildup.
Put back the metal door portion. Cleaned the outer glass door front and back. Being careful not to break it (or leave prints inside). Replaced the side and bottom metal frames. Wiped it down and put door back on stove.