Models > GS395LEGT4

GS395LEGT4 Whirlpool Range

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Manuals & Guides for GS395LEGT4

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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Sold Individually. As the broiler drawer slides back and forth, these glides prevent metal-to-metal contact.
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$63.36
Sold individually.
On Order
$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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This is the replacement spark igniter or surface burner igniter for your range. This igniter has a blue tube, but the tube can come in a variety of colors, and still do the same job. The spark igniter...
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
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$8.04
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
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Sold individually.
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$8.04
Sold individually.
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$7.68
This screw is sold individually.
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$162.37
This handle does not come with the mounting screws. They are required for installation. NOTE: This handle has been updated and requires new mounting screws. The old handle was threaded and the new d...
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Exterior glass only. This is not the complete door assembly.
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for GS395LEGT4

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Element will not heat
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Customer:
Wendy from Red Hook, NY
Parts Used:
WPW10208653
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
98 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marilyn from Antioch, IL
Parts Used:
W11032529
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Front burner would not light. The igniter was cracked and the spark would not jump to the burner head.
I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.
48 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Gregory from Thornton, CO
Parts Used:
WPW10107820
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
E1 F5 Error on display
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a n ew Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!
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