MGF303PGWG Uni Range - Instructions

After reading up on the problem of the gas oven not lighting I decided I needed to install a new igniter. I had read where some people just pulled a panel off the back and installed a new one.. yeah, no such luck with this model so I had to crawl into the broiler drawer space [which I had to clean out first]. Note, if you wear trifocal glasses you might as well close your eyes and replace it by feel because there is no way to tilt your head back enough to see what you are doing and still get both arms and your chest in a broiler. Also be sure to remove all cats and dogs from the area before starting. They seem to think they can help or it's a game of hide and seek and they want to hide with you.. they were no help at all.
Other than that, it was quite easy.

1. Turned off circuit breaker to stove
2. Removed the two screws holding down the floor of the oven (screws are at back.), and then lifted it out.
3. Removed the nut holding down the flame guard, and lifted it off.
4. Opened the bottom drawer.
5. Removed the protective cover in the back left of the oven at the bottom, first removing the one screw at the bottom that holds it. This reveals a white plug, presumably going to a fuse.
6. Disconnected the white plastic connector, lifting its front tab to release it.
7. The igniter wires go to two lugs that attach at the floor of the oven at the back (one goes via the now free white connector). Slide back the plastic lug covers and use pliers to pull off the lugs. Note that the wider one (on the right) goes to the top of the igniter, while the narrower one (on the left) goes to the bottom of the igniter via the white plastic connector.
8. Removed the two bolts holding the igniter.
9. At this point, the igniter comes out. Nice, since it means you can work on the wires in comfort.
10. Slide the flame retardant sleeves away from the igniter. I found in-line connections about 1.5 inches from the igniter, and cut the wires next to these (on the side away from the igniter, of course.), and stripped the final 3/8 inch. Shorten the wires on the replacement igniter so that they are 3 or 4 inches long, slide on the flame retardant sleeves, then strip the final 3/8ths inch. Use the provided caps to connect the wires. Bottom wire goes to the plastic connector, top wire goes to the wide lug.
11. Install the new igniter by connecting the lugs, sliding on their protective plastic sleeves, reconnecting the white plastic connector, screwing in the two igniter mounting screws, and reinstalling the corner cover. Put back the flame shield and floor of the oven. Turn on the circuit breaker, and it works!

I first looked up my Model Number on PartSelect.com and looked at the schematic as well as Trouble Shooted my problem.

Reading the posts by others how they Removed, Replaced, and Repaired their Oven Ignitors, I used their helpful info, and of course did mine.

1. Unplugged my Oven/Stove.

2. Removed bottom storage door to get access to cover plate.

3. Removed oven racks inside oven to gain access to and removed Flame Cover.

4. Removed Screw holding Oven Ignitor in place.

5. Unplugged Ignitor Plug from feed wird in Oven from underneath.

6. Removed Oven Ignitor from the bottom area where storage drawer was.

7. Installed new Ignitor and replaced screw holding Ignitor assembly in place.

8. Replace Flame cover and racks.

9. Plugged in new ignitor underneath, and replaced cover plate.

10. Plugged in Stove/Oven and Oven began to heat! IGNITOR worked!

11. Replaced bottom drawer and slid Stove back into position.

All went easy and only difficulty was replacing cover plate below as it is awkward and having to line up screws/holes was a bit trying.

Using Work Light essential to see well, and, some screws may or can be hard to remove.

Both my neighbor and I ordered our Ignitors within a week of each other. My Oven was Amana his is a Tappan. His failed after a few weeks, but, PartSelect replaced promptly and we are all happy.

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

Turned Off Breaker!
Removed 2 screws that held Igniter in place.
Cut Old Wires Free
Marked location to old igniter with tape so I didn't cross connect.
Stripped new wire ends.
Used Wire Nuts to connect New part (provided).
Installed New Igniter with 2 screws.
Flipped Breaker On.
Tested
WORKS PERFECT.

Saved over $500.00 by repairing rather than replacing.

The igniter has to be drawing atleast 3 amps for the gas valve to open. If it only draws 2.6 amps like the one i replaced it, the oven won't light.

1: Remove oven door.
2: Remove bottom shield, slide in.
3: Remove flame deflector four (4) screws, nut driver.
4: Remove igniter, two (2) screws, nut driver.
5: Remove lower drawer, slide in.
6: Remove wire shield, two (2) screws, nut driver.
7: Disconnect two (2) wire nuts, hands
8: Remove old igniter, hands
9: Install new part in reverse order...

I should have ordered it earlier. It was so easy to install. At first, the oven took 1 minute to light, then, a bit longer, finally around 20 minutes, I told my husband that he needs to get it fixed. So, finally when it wouldn't light at all... I ordered the part and had him install it. It took less than 15 minutes, listening to him the whole time. Now it's wonderful, like a new oven again. Lights up like it should.

Great part selection. Fast service. Thank you

Turned off the breaker to the oven. Took out the racks and oven floor. Took out the steel deflector that sits on top of the oven burner itself (one bolt/washer). Removed the two bolts holding the igniter. Pulled the old igniter around the other side of the burner to be able to better access the wires. There was a woven sleeve around the ends of the wires, pulled those down the wire to expose the connection. There was an inline connector about 2-3 inches from the igniter, and normal wire after that. I cut the wires where that connection was made and stripped 3/8 inch off the cut wires. Then I cut the wires of the new igniter to the same length as what remained on the old igniter, stripped 3/8 inch off of those, paired them up and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new part to make the new connections. Put it all back together, and fired it up. It works wonderfully!

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

It was amazingly easy! I am a woman who was a little afraid to deal with wires. But it was just so super easy! And, I saved a bundle by doing it myself! Here's how I did it:
(1) UNPLUGGED OVEN FROM WALL!!!
(2) Remove floor of oven (1 screw)
(3) Remove large metal strip underneath oven floor (2 screws)
(4) Removed oven igniter (2 screws)
(5) Marked top wire of old igniter before cutting
(6) Cut both wires close to old igniter
(7) Removed a little of the covering of the old wires to expose bare wire
(8) Matched up old top wire with new top wire & twisted both old wires to the new wires
(9) Replaced all screws and oven parts

Step one - Diagnose. Used a clamp-on ammeter around the igniter lead to check if 3.6 amps or greater were present during ignition. Only about 2.5 amps were measured, indicating that the igniter was bad.

Step two - Ordered the part.

Installation - Removed the racks and bottom oven compartment cover plates, exposing the igniter/burner assembly. Removed the bottom drawer, cut the wires of the existing igniter (leaving plenty of wire left for the new one). Removed the igniter/burner assembly through the oven compartment. Removed the old igniter from the burner, installed the new one. Re-seated the igniter/burner assembly, routing the wires appropriately. Stripped the existing leads (cut in previous step), spliced the new leads in, soldered the connection (soldering is optional). Taped up the splices with electrician's tape. Turned on the oven to verify that the new igniter glowed and the burner lit. Turned off the oven and waited for the burner to cool. Replaced the bottom cover plates and rack.

Final step - Baked some bread.

Unplug power, remove draw, marked and cut wires, unscrewed and removed old igniter, replaced and screwed new igniter into position, reconnected wires with supplied porcelin wire nuts, replace draw, plug in and tried...working great.

order pcs fit perfect.

Disconnect appliance from electricity source! Removed oven grates and the solid oven floor by removing the two screws and lifting up. Removed the piece of metal covering the oven igniter. Unscrewed oven igniter, snipped the wires close to the old igniter (read some of the better descriptions on how to do this). Reconnected new wires to the existing ones and used the ceramic wire covers that came with the new igniter and pushed the wires back through the opening in the rear of the oven. Screwed the new igniter in place. We actually had to unscrew the little metal box on the back of the oven to get to the wires which was easier to work there with connecting the wires. It was a little difficult reaching into the stove since we didn't remove the oven door.

The new part arrived quickly and well-packaged. Removing the old top was easy enough, but needed to remove the legs (that hold it in an open position for cleaning) from the old top. The sheet metal screws holding one of them in place were rusted in place. Had to loosen with WD-40 and vice grips, but got them off without breaking or stripping the threads. They installed perfectly on the new top and the top slipped into place easily.