NE59N6650WS (AC) Samsung Range - Instructions

My barely 4 year old Samsung range/oven began not heating consistently. Even though it said 350, for example, we had to increase to 465 to get it to bake. Thought it was the temperature sensor. Ordered and installed new one easily. That didn't solve the problem. So, rather than throw more money at parts that may not have resolved the issue, I got a new Amana range. Samsung appliances go to my 'do not buy' list along with LG!

I removed the control panel with a Phillips screwdriver and unplugged the burner switch and replaced the new switch and put the control panel back in place and turned on the burner and it worked as it should.i realized that I only would have only had to remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the control panel. All I would have had to do was just take those 4 screws out and remove the switch control knob and the two screws that held the switch in. Am very happy with the results

This oven has two fans that counter rotate. One spins clockwise, the other counterclockwise. Because of this, the motors and the fan blades are different. The schematic shows the counter clockwise rotating fan with a right hand threaded shaft/nut on the bottom and the clockwise motor and fan with the left hand nut on the top. My range had the motors in the exact opposite orientation, but the fan blades on the motors as shown on the schematic. The incorrect assembly at the factory (I bought new in the box, so I know this is the first repair) meant that nether fan blade was turning the correct direction. So do yourself a favor, be sure you’re buying the right motor (clockwise or counterclockwise) and be sure you put the right fan blade on the right motor. The Samsung motor ending in F is the counterclockwise motor that has the right hand threaded shaft the clockwise motor with the left hand threaded shaft ends in E.

ordered the temp sensor for a standard complaint, new sensor was the correct part ordered, however, once the old sensor was removed, I ohm'd the original and the new part. Both were 1080, checked wiring, checked gas burner, checked line voltage. Searched other part prices, found Samsung to be a not desirable product to own. This non repair was to help my neighbor who lives on a fixed income. Checked oven temp with the oven at 350 f setting, oven was 223 f. Set oven to 465 f and fount the oven at 353 f. I wanted to return the part but she insisted I install it anyway and found the oven doing the same thing. She did not want to throw more money at a 4 year old range. Will use it as it is but will buy a cheap oven temp gauge. Samsung sucks.

I took off the back cover after I looked at youtube similar problems. Then removed the little thermostat and un hooked the 2 wires. I looked up the part and after is was delivered couple days later I connected the 2 wies and after putting the back cover on the oven was back to normal. Was such an easy repair and the part was only $11.

Cool oven, open door. Turn off electrical power. I laid a cloth over door to protect and to catch ant screws that my fat fingers would drop. I removed 4 screws under control panel. I pulled panel up and off stove face. My wife held it safely as I removed the triple burner knob. I then placed new switch, on stove top in same position as old one. I then removed screws holding old knob to release from control panel. The removed electrical connections one at a time and installed on new switch. Reinstalled switch back in control panel. Reinstalled control panel. Placed knob back in place. Turned electrical power back on. Then tested burner. Wife is happy and so am I.

First turn off the breaker for your oven/range, then open the oven door and look up at the control panel where the controls are. There are four screws holding it in place. Remove them and wiggle the control panel away from the stove top. Before you remove the four wiring connectors from the old switch box take a picture so you will know how they go back on. Remove the wiring connectors and pull the control knob off its shaft. There are two screws behind the control knob that secure the switch box to the control panel. Remove them. Install the new switch box before attaching its wiring connectors which will make it easier to line up the screw holes behind the control panel.

Slide out the stove. Unplug the electricity. Remove the back panel with a screwdriver. Then go inside the oven and remove the two Philips head screws holding the fan cover. Then remove the nut holding the fan. Note, it is a left handed nut, so turn it right to loosen it. Pull off the fan. Return to the back and remove the nut and two screws that hold the fan. The fan slides right out. The only problem I had was that the electrical contacts on the new motor were wider than the original. I had to break the plastic so I could separate the wire leads, so that they would fit the new motor. Works like a charm.
John

Just a few screws hold on the faceplate beneath the switches - then the actuator just plugs in! Then replace the screws
For $185 and 10 mins I saved a $1500 range/oven.
Yay Partselect for having the part available:)

Other tools that are usefull long needle nose pliers, long thin blade screw driver and small magnetic flashlight. Place the microwave on a work bench and remove the case it cover 3 sides. Place the microwave on a chair so it can stand with the controls up. You are replacing the lower door microswitch. The switch is located behind the control panel in the lower part of the area. The switch is several inches inside this area and your hands will not fit. Take care when moving wires and a couple of sensors. Use the thin blade screwdriver to release a tab holding the switch in place. Do not break this tab. Take the needle nose pliers and remove the switch. Put the wires on the new switch, open the door a short distance so a door lever moves enough to put the microswitch back into the bracket.

Turned off circuit breaker, unplugged from wall. Removed dials from front of range. Removed back top panel, and removed Phillips screws holding the associated switches to the front panel. Installed new switches and moved the wiring connectors from old to new switches. Replaced the back panel and front dials. Restored power and tested. So simple even an old phone guy could do it…

Remove back sheet metal covers. Disconnect temp. Sensor. Open oven door and remove grates. Remove two screws holding sensor to back oven wall. Pull out and then replace with new one. Assemble connections in back and replace sheet metal covers.

Followed the tutorial, making things easy.

I had previously replaced the heating element and heat sensor to the range. The cost of replacing the thermostat was minimal. The key to replacing the thermostat is finding where it is located. Several videos describing the Samsung thermostat showed it housed under the top of the stove. This particular model places the thermostat at the back of the range near the left side. After unplugging the range, and removing the back cover with a Phillips screwdriver, it was easy to locate the thermostat. After unplugging the existing one, and using a very small flathead screwdriver to gently pry the upper and lower clips holding it in place, installation of the new thermostat was a breeze. Removing and replacing did not take more than a couple of minutes. The oven is now heating properly at all temperature settings. I would recommend finding a schematic of the range showing the location of all the parts before beginning the repair.

This was a simple repair. Ater unplugging the oven from the outlet, and removing the oven racks, it was simply a matter of using a long handled Phillips screwdriver to remove the one screw holding the original heat sensor in place. It was not necessary to remove the oven door. There was no need to remove the existing heating element. After the screw was removed, I removed the back cover of the oven (held together by several screws). Unplugging the existing sensor took a bit of time since it was difficult to press down on the clip to separate the wire from the connector. After releasing the sensor wire, it was simply a matter of feeding the old sensor wire back through the oven and removing it from the oven. The new sensor from this site was installed by reversing the removal procedure. It clipped into place easily. I reinstalled the back plate to the oven, connected the oven to the 220 outlet and was done. The oven heats perfectly.