Models > 2570B00

2570B00 Roper Range

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Diagrams for 2570B00

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This chrome drip bowl is an OEM approved replacement part designed for use with various models of electric ranges and cooktops. This drip bowl fits under 6-inch burner elements and has a diameter of a...
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The roller shaft is also known as a support roller shaft or a drum roller axle. It is a part in your dryer that the drum rollers spin on, helping your dryer to tumble. If your appliance is noisy while...
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The drip bowl is found underneath the burner element of ranges with a rolled terminal style plug-in surface element. The purpose of the bowl is to catch any drips or spills that may occur while cookin...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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The manufacturer suggests replacing the receptacle at the same time.
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$8.04
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
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$18.66
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$5.37
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Common Problems and Symptoms for 2570B00

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Noisy
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Fixing
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Element will not heat
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Drum Not Spinning
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Customer:
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Ronald from Fresno, CA
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Electric burner on stove would not work
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
JOAN from Pickford, MI
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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