Models > 1233Z1A

1233Z1A Roper Range

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Diagrams for 1233Z1A

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BACKGUARD Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
BACKGUARD
BODY Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
BODY
BURNER Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
BURNER
LOWER OVEN DOOR Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
LOWER OVEN DOOR
MAIN TOP Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
MAIN TOP
OVEN DOOR Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
OVEN DOOR
ROTISSERIE , GRIDDLE Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
ROTISSERIE , GRIDDLE
SECTION Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
SECTION
SECTION Diagram and Parts List for Roper Range
SECTION
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
$22.00
This lid or door switch kit helps ensure your washer or dryer only runs when the door is properly closed. It’s a safety feature that prevents spills and keeps your appliance working as it should. The ...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Delta Frame Surface Unit - 6 Inch – Part Number: WPY04100165
$51.45
This 6-inch coil surface element is designed to replace a broken burner on compatible electric ranges, restoring direct heat for everyday cooking. With a power output of 1250 watts, it efficiently hea...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
$7.30
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Broil Element – Part Number: 326795
This five loop broil element has a hanger style mount.
No Longer Available
High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP303896
$62.17
This thermostat is used for Canadian models only.
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Burner Control Knob – Part Number: WP313307
Sold Individually.
No Longer Available
Door Handle Spring – Part Number: 310197
No Longer Available
Blower Belt – Part Number: WP691371
$54.01
This blower belt helps circulate air in compatible Whirlpool dryers by connecting the motor to the blower wheel. It’s a durable OEM part that can fix issues like poor drying performance or strange noi...
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives by Mar 19
Timer – Part Number: 285675
The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences.
No Longer Available
Washer – Part Number: 303963
No Longer Available
NEW INSTAL – Part Number: WFR112013
No Longer Available
Insulation – Part Number: 303556
No Longer Available
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for 1233Z1A

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Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
Fixed by these parts
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Will not agitate
Fixed by these parts
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Won’t Start
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Fixing
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Replacing the Lid Switch

Replacing the Lid Switch

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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Glen from Plano, TX
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Mandie from Lewisville, NC
Parts Used:
W10820036
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
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18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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