Models > B4007B1

B4007B1 Roper Range

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Diagrams for B4007B1

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This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
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This is a genuine OEM replacement part. This surface burner plug-in block kit is designed for use with surface elements of your ranges and cooktops. This kit helps connect the wire harness to the surf...
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This round style carborundum gas oven igniter has 10 inch lead and amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0 amps. Be very careful when handling this igniter as it is very fragile. Please note - The bracket ...
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The top of this part is now black.
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This temperature sensor is used with self cleaning ovens. Its 1000 ohm resistance increases with temperature. This sensor has male leads and comes with ceramic wire nuts.
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$13.17
This screw is sold individually.
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This rocker switch can be used for both the oven selector and/or the oven light.
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$7.95
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$9.36
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Common Problems and Symptoms for B4007B1

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Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Customer:
Mark from Rego Park, NY
Parts Used:
4342528
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
80 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Phillip from Pekin, IL
Parts Used:
330031
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
Parts Used:
4396923
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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