Models > BRF725GL9

BRF725GL9 RCA Range

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This is a genuine OEM part is a partially open-style bake element for your oven, and comes with 1/4-inch push-on terminals. The bake element is found in the bottom of your oven, and it is responsible ...
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Drip bowls are designed to catch any spills or messes from cooking on your stove top. The bowls sit underneath the burner elements on your stove and can easily be removed for cleaning. If your drip bo...
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This metallic clip is used to help support the broil element. Sold individually.
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The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
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$151.57
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
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This is the drip bowl for your range or cooktop. The drip bowl sits beneath the burner of an electric range and collects any spills during cooking. The bowl is 6 inches in diameter and represents the ...
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This kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip and wires.
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This is a broiler pan for your range. It catches drippings from the cookware, when broiling in the oven. This assembly includes the grill/grate and the bottom pan. These parts are made of porcelain. T...
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$7.77
Sold Individually.
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$8.30
Sold Individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for BRF725GL9

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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
Timothy from Cordova, TN
Parts Used:
WB44K5012
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Bake element cracked on its own
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, fl ip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
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Customer:
Sandra from Hayward, CA
Parts Used:
WB44K5012
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who ha d already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
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Customer:
James from Austin, TX
Parts Used:
WB21X5301
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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