MER6741BAW17 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

My husband turned off the breaker, removed two screws and install new element. I was baking again in no time.

First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.

I removed all 8 screws that hold the oven door together slide out front glass & then removed two screws from broken handle , & replaced then new handle Whtch was $20 cheeper then sears & just slid galss back into place & reinstalled all the screws , took all of about 30 mins front start to finshes

Electrically tested the element for open circuit and found that it had blown. Bought new element and fitted same. Process is simple on this machine.This job can be done from inside the oven enclosure without having to move the unit away from the wall. SWITCH OFF ELECTRICAL SUPPLY TO MACHINE _ FIRST!Unscrew 4 screws holding plate against back wall of lower oven. Gently pull the element until you expose the the two flat 'spade' electrical connectors,use the pliers to disconnect the connections and then simply reverse the above procedure when re-installing the new element.However, I was a bit unlucky because this element replacement did not fix the original no heat problem. Looked at the electrical schematic drawing supplied with the oven and saw that the only other potential areas for investigation was the lower oven thermocouple and the rather expensive control module located in the upper part of the oven. The thermocouple was working because the temperature of the lower oven was registering and the upper bake element in the lower oven was getting hot. Made some phone calls to Maytag and they were no help at all. "We no longer give service advice over the phone because of potential legal issues". Found a local Maytag repair agent and after quotes that meant it would be just as cheap to buy a new oven, I elected to buy and replace the H3 Control Module. I ordered the unit . It arrived in 24 hours by standard mail. How to replace the module. Again switch off electrical supply to the oven at the breaker unit and pull oven away from wall to gain clear access to the rear of the appliance. Unscrew the top 4 screws holding the rear metal covers to the display unit on the top of the unit. Check that the module numbers are the same before proceeding. You will find that the shipped module does not come with the printed circuit board (PCB). This is OK, the PCB is mostly for the wiring connectors only. Pull the connectors quite firmly by hand, keeping pressure for support onto the back of the PCBU. The connectors are generally color-coded, or have unique slot allignments. You may find that the pcb is strapped with a plastic tie wrap. Cut the wrap first. Unscrew the two retaining screws holding the module assembly to the oven front face and remove the module from the oven. On the new unit, remove the clear plastic film from the display screen and reverse the above procedure to re-install. Keep the module because if this problem should manifest itself again. The module relays can be de-soldered and intechanged for future repairs.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Easy as pie
2 screws to loosen and 2 wires to connect on blades of element.

This job couldnt be easier. Just remember to SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON 220v stove.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.